French Classics Made Easy

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Authors: Richard Grausman
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whisking the bottom and sides of the pan until the mixture thickens and boils, about 30 seconds. (Turning the pan as you whisk helps you easily reach all areas of the pan.) Continue to whisk vigorously for 1 minute while the soufflé base gently boils. It will become shiny and easier to stir.
    6. Reduce the heat to medium and allow the soufflé base to simmer while you season it with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then stir in the reserved spinach. Remove the pan from the heat and cover.
    7. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes.
    8. Pour the warm soufflé base into a large bowl. With a whisk, fold in one-third of the beaten egg whites to lighten it. Some egg white will still be visible. With a rubber spatula, fold in the remaining egg whites. Stop folding as soon as the mixture is blended; a little egg white may still be visible.
    9. Pour the soufflé mixture into the prepared mold, leveling the surface with your spatula. If any of the batter touches the rim of the mold, run your thumb around the rim to clean it off. (The soufflé can be prepared ahead to this point; see “Preparing Soufflés for the Oven Ahead of Time,” page 264 .)
    10. Bake for 5 minutes. Lower the temperature to 425°F and bake for another 5 to 7 minutes. The soufflé should rise 1½ to 2 inches above the mold and brown lightly on the top. The top may be slightly cracked, but this is not a problem. Serve immediately.
    IN ADDITION
    A finished soufflé will be firm and dry around the outside edge and soft and creamy in the center. Since most Americans are used to soufflés that are considerably drier, they often feel they have made a mistake when they find the creamy center. If you prefer a drier center, allow the soufflé to remain in the oven for 3 to 4 minutes longer.
VARIATIONS
    You can vary the flavor of this soufflé by adding 1 ounce grated Swiss-style cheese, such as Gruyère or Emmentaler. You might also want to add some crumbled bacon, or a few mushrooms that have been chopped and sautéed. Just remember that the more you add, the heavier the soufflé becomes. If you decide to use all of the above-mentioned ingredients in the soufflé, add one more egg white to provide a little extra lift.
    ROQUEFORT SOUFFLE
    [SOUFFLÉ AU ROQUEFORT]
    Since the ingredients for a cheese soufflé are generally at hand, it’s easy to prepare an elegant lunch or light supper for unexpected guests. This particular version was inspired by a soufflé I had years ago at the restaurant Taillevent in Paris, but the cheese soufflé most commonly served in France is a soufflé au fromage (see Variation) made with Gruyère or Emmentaler. If Roquefort is difficult to find, substitute another blue cheese.
    SERVES 2 OR 4
     
S OUFFLE P ROBLEM -S OLVING C HART

Butter and all-purpose flour, for soufflé mold
1 cup milk
3 egg yolks
1 tablespoon water
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
2 ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled (about ⅔ cup)
4 egg whites
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar
    1. Preheat the oven to 475°F with the rack set in the lowest position. Liberally butter a 4-cup soufflé mold and lightly dust with flour, tapping out any excess.
    2. In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over medium heat. While the milk is heating, whisk the egg yolks and water together in a small bowl. Add the 3 tablespoons flour to the yolks and blend until smooth.
    3. Before the milk boils, stir about ¼ cup of it into the egg yolk mixture to thin it.When the remaining milk boils, add it and stir well.
    4. Return the egg-milk mixture to the saucepan and whisk rapidly over medium-high heat, whisking the bottom and sides of the pan until the mixture thickens and boils, about 30 seconds. (Turning the pan as you whisk helps you easily reach all areas of the pan.) Continue to whisk vigorously for 1 minute while the soufflé base gently boils. It will

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