Read Online French Classics Made Easy by Richard Grausman - Free Book Online
Authors: Richard Grausman
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most soufflés in advance (see “Preparing Soufflés for the Oven Ahead of Time,” page 264 ), and to bake them without collars in 10 minutes or less. I cook soufflés in a very hot oven (475°F) so that the surface sets immediately in the high heat, as do the sides as they rise from the mold. The resulting light crust holds the soufflé together as it rises and eliminates the need for the paper collar often used to give extra height and support. (A note of caution, however: This high-temperature method only works with molds no larger than 4 to 5 cups.)
Traditionally, a soufflé is made of a base, a purée or flavoring, and stiffly beaten egg whites. For most classic savory soufflés, the base is essentially a thick béchamel sauce (made with butter, flour, and milk) to which a flavoring (cheese, spinach, ham) and egg yolks are added, before being lightened with stiffly beaten egg whites. Although this base is called for in most soufflé recipes, in my experience even fairly proficient cooks have problems with it. If the base is undercooked, it will be too thin and the soufflé will break off as it rises out of the mold. If overcooked, it will be too thick to easily incorporate with the beaten egg whites, and the results are often heavy or lumpy.
A dessert soufflé, on the other hand, doesn’t seem to suffer these problems and it uses a base made without butter. I have therefore adapted this idea for savory soufflés, using what is effectively a sugarless pastry cream as a base.
Should you encounter problems while learning to make soufflés, see the “Soufflé Problem-Solving Chart” on page 45 .
HAM SOUFFLE
[SOUFFLÉ AU JAMBON]
Aham soufflé makes a wonderful lunch or light supper when served with a green salad and dessert. The ham used can be baked ham, simple boiled ham, or more flavorful smoked or imported hams. The soufflé serves two for lunch or four as a first course.
SERVES 2 OR 4
Butter and all-purpose flour, for soufflé mold
1 cup milk
3 egg yolks
1 tablespoon water
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon Madeira
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ pound ham (boiled, baked, or smoked), finely chopped
4 egg whites
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar
1. Preheat the oven to 475°F with the rack set in the lowest position. Liberally butter a 4-cup soufflé mold and lightly dust with flour, tapping out any excess.
2. In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over medium heat. While the milk is heating, whisk the egg yolks and water together in a small bowl. Add the 3 tablespoons flour to the yolks and blend until smooth and free of lumps.
3. Before the milk boils, stir about ¼ cup of it into the egg yolk mixture to thin it. When the remaining milk boils, add it to the egg yolk mixture and stir well.
4. Return the egg-milk mixture to the saucepan and whisk rapidly over medium-high heat, whisking the bottom and sides of the pan until the mixture thickens and boils, about 30 seconds. (Turning the pan as you whisk helps you easily reach all areas of the pan.) Continue to whisk vigorously for 1 minute while the soufflé base gently boils. It will become shiny and easier to stir.
5. Reduce the heat to medium and allow the soufflé base to simmer while you stir in the pepper, Madeira, mustard, and ham. Remove the pan from the heat and cover.
6. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes.
7. Pour the warm soufflé base into a large bowl. With a whisk, fold in one-third of the beaten egg whites to lighten it. Some egg white will still be visible. With a rubber spatula, fold in the remaining egg whites. Stop folding as soon as the mixture is blended; a little egg white may still be visible.
8. Pour the soufflé mixture into the prepared mold, leveling the surface with your spatula. If any of the batter touches the rim of the mold, run your thumb around the rim to clean it off.(You can prepare the soufflé ahead to this
Traditionally, a soufflé is made of a base, a purée or flavoring, and stiffly beaten egg whites. For most classic savory soufflés, the base is essentially a thick béchamel sauce (made with butter, flour, and milk) to which a flavoring (cheese, spinach, ham) and egg yolks are added, before being lightened with stiffly beaten egg whites. Although this base is called for in most soufflé recipes, in my experience even fairly proficient cooks have problems with it. If the base is undercooked, it will be too thin and the soufflé will break off as it rises out of the mold. If overcooked, it will be too thick to easily incorporate with the beaten egg whites, and the results are often heavy or lumpy.
A dessert soufflé, on the other hand, doesn’t seem to suffer these problems and it uses a base made without butter. I have therefore adapted this idea for savory soufflés, using what is effectively a sugarless pastry cream as a base.
Should you encounter problems while learning to make soufflés, see the “Soufflé Problem-Solving Chart” on page 45 .
HAM SOUFFLE
[SOUFFLÉ AU JAMBON]
Aham soufflé makes a wonderful lunch or light supper when served with a green salad and dessert. The ham used can be baked ham, simple boiled ham, or more flavorful smoked or imported hams. The soufflé serves two for lunch or four as a first course.
SERVES 2 OR 4
Butter and all-purpose flour, for soufflé mold
1 cup milk
3 egg yolks
1 tablespoon water
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon Madeira
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
¼ pound ham (boiled, baked, or smoked), finely chopped
4 egg whites
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar
1. Preheat the oven to 475°F with the rack set in the lowest position. Liberally butter a 4-cup soufflé mold and lightly dust with flour, tapping out any excess.
2. In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over medium heat. While the milk is heating, whisk the egg yolks and water together in a small bowl. Add the 3 tablespoons flour to the yolks and blend until smooth and free of lumps.
3. Before the milk boils, stir about ¼ cup of it into the egg yolk mixture to thin it. When the remaining milk boils, add it to the egg yolk mixture and stir well.
4. Return the egg-milk mixture to the saucepan and whisk rapidly over medium-high heat, whisking the bottom and sides of the pan until the mixture thickens and boils, about 30 seconds. (Turning the pan as you whisk helps you easily reach all areas of the pan.) Continue to whisk vigorously for 1 minute while the soufflé base gently boils. It will become shiny and easier to stir.
5. Reduce the heat to medium and allow the soufflé base to simmer while you stir in the pepper, Madeira, mustard, and ham. Remove the pan from the heat and cover.
6. In a large bowl, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff peaks form, about 3 minutes.
7. Pour the warm soufflé base into a large bowl. With a whisk, fold in one-third of the beaten egg whites to lighten it. Some egg white will still be visible. With a rubber spatula, fold in the remaining egg whites. Stop folding as soon as the mixture is blended; a little egg white may still be visible.
8. Pour the soufflé mixture into the prepared mold, leveling the surface with your spatula. If any of the batter touches the rim of the mold, run your thumb around the rim to clean it off.(You can prepare the soufflé ahead to this
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