ride, but, aside from the painfully bright sun, it turned out to be not so bad. âThe ride back is always easier,â advised Mike, the El Kartel capo. âEverybodyâs tired, nobody has any money left, and the drugs are all gone.â
On that trip back, the bus stopped in Chihuahua city at Carnitas el Entronque, a roadside vendor of deep-fried everything. Pig, cow, chicken, and who knows what else bubbled in giant vats of brown oil. Tripeâcow intestinesâbobbed to the top of the vats, poked back into the oil by wooden paddles the size of boat oars. When the flesh crackled with crispness, workers used giant metal tongs to pull the meats from the vats. These body parts were served still oozing hot oil. No quiero, gracias. No way, Jose. While El Kartel ate, I checked out Chihuahua. The capital is a lot cleaner than Juárez. Itâs more modern, too. Expensive carsâBMW, Audi, Acuraâsparkle in lots lining the highway. Dealership signs battle American chain restaurants for attention. The city looks so gringo that smugglers paid to slip Guatemalans across the U.S. border have been caught dropping them off in the capital and telling them theyâd made it to Texas. On the northern edge of town, a series of banners advertise new houses built by Grupo Yvasa, the Ibarra family construction company.
Francisco Ibarraâs father moved to Juárez in the 1950s. He was a young man from the coastal state of Sonora, the owner of nothing more than an engineering degree and a hunger to earn his fortune. Juárez was much smaller back then, a frontier, a place where a hustler could try just about anything. (Which it still is. âJuárez is the second world,â Francisco tells me. âItâs not settled, itâs not the first world like El Paso or Mexico City. There are more opportunities.â) His father started out selling bread by the side of the road. He saved up enough money to open a food stand, Tacos El Campeón, which remains in the family. He tapped gold when he ventured into construction. His Grupo Yvasa homes are not luxurious accommodations. I spent New Yearâs Eve in an Yvasa house located in a dirt-road subdivision maybe seven miles from the Indiosâ practice facility. The house, listed as a two-bedroom with a front yard, looked more like a subdivided studio apartment. A kitchen stove and sink shared a living room with enough space for a couch and a portable television but too small to add even a table. Winter air rushed through gaps between the walls and the ceiling; Iâve built snow forts that were more substantial. Yet that house and countless houses just like it sold as fast as they could be built. The North American Free Trade Agreement, enacted in 1994, moved Mexico from an agrarian peasant economy to a system dependent upon manufacturing. Jobs harvesting the fields of Michoacán transferred to the maquiladoras along the Texas border. Migrants in search of factory work, hardly wealthy, needed somewhere to live. The poorest squatted in tar-paper shantytowns up in the hills. Those with some meansâthe house where I partied on New Yearâs Eve is rented by a nurse from Pueblaâmoved into the kinds of homes Yvasa slapped together in one subdivision after another. As their business grew, the Ibarras began winning lucrative government contracts to lay highways, pump water, and build still more houses on choice city land.
When Francisco Ibarra was young, his father pushed him to study engineering. Francisco earned a degree, but construction never made his heart thumpânot the way a mere sport, soccer, always has. Rather than join Grupo Yvasa, Francisco volunteered with the Cobras, back then the cityâs new professional team. He broadcast their games over airwaves he rented on a local AM station. Francisco stayed in radio even after the Cobras quickly folded. Grupo Yvasaâs fattening bank accounts allowed him to buy a station outright.
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