The Hemingway Cookbook

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Authors: Craig Boreth
know where you are going to eat right now? Lipp’s is where you are going to eat and drink too.” 11
There were few people in the brasserie and when I sat down on the bench against the wall with the mirror in back and a table in front and the waiter asked if I wanted beer I asked for a distingué , the big glass mug that held a liter, and for potato salad. The beer was very cold and wonderful to drink. The pommes à l’huile were firm and marinated and the olive oil delicious. I ground black pepper over the potatoes and moistened the bread in the olive oil. After the first heavy draft of beer I drank and ate very slowly. When the pommes à l’huile were gone Iordered another serving and a cervelas . This was a sausage like a heavy, wide frankfurter split in two and covered with a special mustard sauce. I mopped up all the oil and all of the sauce with bread and drank the beer slowly until it began to lose its coldness and then I finished it and ordered a demi and watched it drawn. 12
    THE MENU
    Lunch at the
Brasserie Lipp
    Pommes de Terre à l’Huile
Cervelas with Mustard Sauce
Beer
    Pommes de Terre à l’Huile (Potatoes in Oil)
    2 SERVINGS
1 pound potatoes
6 tablespoons very fine olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Salt
Pepper
2 tablespoons dry white wine
2 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon beef broth
    Wash and peel the potatoes. Place in a saucepan with enough cold salted water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes and cut into slices as soon as they’re cool enough to handle. Put the sliced potatoes into a medium bowl and toss gently with the olive oil, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. In a small saucepan, heat the wine, vinegar, and broth until hot. Pour over the potatoes and toss gently. Be sure to include plenty of bread for mopping up the sauce.
    Cervelas with Mustard Sauce
    Cervelas are fat, short sausages made with pork and pork fat and seasoned with garlic or pepper. The name refers to brains, or cervelles, with which these sausages were formerly made. If cervelas are unavailable, you may substitute any fine pork sausage with garlic .
    1 HUNGRY YOUNG WRITER OR 2 SERVINGS
2 cervelas , or other pork and garlic sausage
2 tablespoons butter
    Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the cervelas . Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove cervelas and rinse with cold water. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Cook the cervelas in the butter until lightly browned. Remove cervelas , cut in half lengthwise, and place on warm plate. Serve covered with mustard sauce.
    Mustard Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
½ onion, finely chopped
½ cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
1 teaspoon vinegar
Juice of ½ lemon
    Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small pan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until translucent. Add the wine and cook until reduced by half. Stir in the mustard and vinegar. Add the lemon juice and the last tablespoon of butter. When the butter is melted, pour the sauce over the cervelas and serve immediately.
    As Hemingway used the Luxembourg gardens to relieve his hunger, he used the Seine for thinking things through. He browsed the bookstalls along the quais, or sat to edit manuscripts for Ford Madox Ford’s transatlantic review , for which he worked as an unpaid assistant in the mid-1920s. He found that the thinking came easier along the river, “seeing people doing something that they understood,” 13 as the fishermen with the long, jointed cane poles understood their serious endeavors along the Seine:
They always caught some fish, and often they made excellent catches of the dace-like fish that were called goujon . They were delicious fried whole and I could eat a plateful. They were plump and sweet-fleshed with a finer flavor than fresh sardines even, and were not at all oily, and we ate them bones and all. One of the best places to eat them was at an openair restaurant built out over the river

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