Food in Jars

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Authors: Marisa McClellan
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the fruit. Stack the zest strips in piles and chop into fine confetti. Combine the zest in a pot with 2 quarts/2 liters water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-high, and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, until zest ribbons are tender.
    While the zest cooks, “supreme” the fruit by cutting the white pith away from the fruit and cutting the fruit into segments between the membranes. Collect the fruit and any juices in a large measuring cup.
    Drain the zest in a fine-mesh sieve, reserving the cooking liquid.
    Prepare a boiling water bath and 4 regular-mouth 1-pint/500 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.
    In a large pot, combine the drained zest, the segmented fruit and any juices, 6 cups/1.4 liters of the reserved cooking liquid, and the sugar (if you are using the powdered pectin, whisk it into the sugar before adding it to the fruit).
    Bring to a boil and cook vigorously over high heat until the mixture reaches 220°F/105°C (this takes between 30 and 40 minutes). Stir regularly as it cooks to prevent scorching.
    When the marmalade reaches 220°F/105°C and sustains that temperature for 1 minute (even after stirring), remove the pot from the heat. Test the set of the marmaladeusing the saucer test described on page 77. If it doesn’t pass, return the pot to the heat and cook for an additional 5 minutes before repeating the test. Once it seems to be setting to your satisfaction, remove the pot from the heat and stir for about 1 minute, to help the zest bits become evenly distributed throughout the preserve.
    Ladle the marmalade into the prepared jars. Wipe the rims, apply the lids and rings, and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes (see page 11 ).

    Blood Orange Marmalade, Meyer Lemon Marmalade

MEYER LEMON CURD
    T HE FIRST TIME I TASTED LEMON CURD, I FELL HARD. I was eleven years old and my family had received a jar of homemade lemon curd from some California cousins. They kept chickens in their backyard with lemon trees out front, and so made jars of curd using these homegrown ingredients to send to friends and family for the holidays. I ate the bulk of that jar in stealthy spoonfuls.
MAKES 2 (HALF-PINT/250 ML) JARS
    Â¼ cup/80 g finely grated Meyer lemon zest (about 4 medium Meyer lemons)
    1¼ cups/250 g granulated sugar
    4 large egg yolks
    2 large eggs
    Â½ cup/120 ml Meyer lemon juice
    6 tablespoons/85 g cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
    Prepare a boiling water bath and 2 half-pint/250 ml jars according to the process on page 10. Place the lids in a small saucepan, cover them with water, and simmer over very low heat.
    Combine the lemon zest and sugar in a small bowl. Rub the zest into the sugar until it is fragrant and fully combined. Set aside.
    Set up a double boiler, add 2 inches/5 cm of water to the bottom pan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Alternatively, set a heatproof mixing bowl over a medium saucepan filled with 2 inches/5 cm of water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the surface of the water. Keeping the top half of the double boiler off the stove, combine the egg yolks and whole eggs and whisk them together. Add the zest and sugar combination and whisk in. Finally, add the lemon juice and stir until it is blended.
    Add the butter and set the top of the double boiler over the simmering water. Switch to a silicone spatula and stir continually as the lemon curd cooks.
    Using a candy thermometer, monitor the temperature of the curd while you stir. As it approaches 190° to 200°F/90° to 95°C, it should start to thicken. One sign ofdoneness is that it will coat the back of your spatula without running or dripping.
    If it is slow to thicken but is approaching 210°F/100°C, remove the top portion of the double boiler and let it cool for a moment before returning to the heat for an additional minute or two of cooking. It typically takes 6

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