Baking with Less Sugar

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Authors: Joanne Chang
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shell and pile the fruit into the shell. Dot the fruit all over with the remaining 1 Tbsp butter.
    8. On a well-floured surface, roll out the remaining dough into a circle about 10 in [25 cm] in diameter and drape it over the pie with the edge of the circle overhanging the edge 1 / 2 in [1 cm] all the way around (you will trim off this excess once the pie is baked). In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk and brush it evenly over the top crust. Sprinkle the top crust evenly with the remaining 1 Tbsp sugar. Cut four to six slits in the center of the dough to allow steam to escape.
    9. Set the pie on a baking sheet to catch any bubbling overflowing fruit juices, and place in the oven. Bake for 1 1 / 4 to 1 1 / 2 hours, or until the top crust is entirely golden brown. If the top of the pie starts to brown too quickly, cover it with aluminum foil during the last 20 minutes of baking to allow the bottom to finish baking without over-baking the top. Remove the pie from the oven and let cool on a wire rack for 3 to 4 hours before serving.
    10. Before serving, use a sharp paring knife to carefully trim the edge of the pie, cutting off the excess overhanging dough and leaving a simple, straight edge on the finished crust. The longer you let the pie sit, the more “together” the fruit will be. If you cut into it while warm, the fruit will be especially juicy and the filling, especially runny. The pie can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.
DOUBLE-CRUST PIE DOUGH
    MAKES ENOUGH FOR ONE
9-IN [23-CM] DOUBLE-CRUST PIE
245 g/1 3 / 4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp kosher salt
225 g/1 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into about 12 pieces
2 egg yolks
3 Tbsp cold whole milk
    1. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or an electric hand mixer), beat the flour and salt on low speed for 10 to 15 seconds, or until mixed. Add the butter and beat slowly for 60 to 90 seconds, or just until the flour is no longer bright white, holds together when you clump it, and there are still lumps of butter the size of a pecan throughout. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and milk and add all at once to the flour-butter mixture. Beat very briefly, still on low speed, about 30 seconds, just until it barely comes together. It will look really shaggy and more like a mess than a dough.
    2. Dump the dough out onto a work surface and gather it into a tight mound. Using the heel of your hand, smear the dough, starting at the top of the mound and sliding your palm down the sides of the mound along the work surface, until most of the butter chunks are smeared into the dough and the whole thing comes together. (This technique is called
fraisage
and makes for a very flaky pie dough.) Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap and press it down to make a flattened disk. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before using. The dough can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 4 days (wrapped in another layer of plastic wrap if storing for more than 1 day) or in the freezer for up to 4 weeks.

VANILLA-PECAN COFFEE CAKE
    Sour cream coffee cake has been on our menu since Day One. The method we use to mix this cake is so common within our baking kitchen that many of our cake recipes simply say “mix like SCCC” in the directions. When I opened Flour, the first pastry to get publicly praised by a food writer was this coffee cake. Sheryl Julian, the food editor of the
Boston Globe
, wrote me requesting the recipe and included it in a breakfast pastry roundup she did for the newspaper. (When you are a new business and someone like that praises you, it’s like Tiger Woods walking by as you tee off and saying, “Nice shot.” You kind of want to tell the world. Which I guess is what I’m doing right now!)
    To say I was a bit tentative in trying to make a low-sugar version of this cake is an understatement. Why mess with something that was already pretty much perfect according to hundreds of Flour customers? But

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