The Kitchen Counter Cooking School

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Authors: Kathleen Flinn
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remained one of the few things that her son, Koji, would eat. “He will eat a little of the chicken and sauce sometimes, but not the rice and definitely none of the vegetables,” she said. Like many toddlers, Koji was a wildly fussy eater. He eschewed vegetables. Unpleasant scenarios occurred when they tried to force him to eat anything other than chicken nuggets, pizza, fish sticks, or mac and cheese. “It all started with day care. That’s what they feed him there. Now he won’t eat anything else. I worry about him. I mean, that can’t be healthy, right?”
    Research studies have found that an increasing number of American children may get enough food to eat yet remain undernourished due to overreliance on foods that are high in fat, salt, and sugar yet lack the fundamental nutrients. A 2004 study found that nearly a third of the calories in a typical American child’s diet came from junk foods, defined as ultraprocessed foods with little nutrition.
    It’s hard to blame kids, according to Dr. David A. Kessler, the author of The End of Overeating: Taking Control of the Insatiable American Appetite. Many of the foods on the common kid-food list—chicken nuggets, powder-based mac and cheese, fish sticks—have been engineered to stimulate pleasure centers in the brain. Studies found that as a result, rats can become addicted to junk food in the same way that they do to cocaine or heroin. Just as with drug addictions, rats often reject their standard “rat chow” and starve to death when denied junk food. That may explain the difficulty—or sometimes impossibility—of trying to force broccoli into a four-year-old in place of dinosaur-shaped pizza bites.
    An acquaintance of mine took her fussy, plump toddler to the doctor when she noticed he had become grumpy and started to gain weight. The doctor described his condition as “a sort of starving.” He was dehydrated, an unsurprising fact given that he shunned water and insisted on sugar-spiked fruit juices or flavored milk. When she tallied up his collective meals from day care and at home, she was horrified to realize that he was subsisting on juice boxes, chicken nuggets, cheeseburgers, French fries, and hot dogs. She couldn’t place the last time she had been able to make him eat a vegetable. I told Jodi that story.
    â€œIt’s not like she was a bad mother,” I said. “She started realizing that wherever they went, the children’s menu invariably included mac and cheese, fries, pizza, hot dogs, and hamburgers. It gives people the message that that’s how kids should eat.”
    The normally bubbly Jodi stared at the counter. “That pretty much describes what Koji eats, too.” She stared into her coffee. “I’m the one who is supposed to take care of him. I know that I shouldn’t give him that kind of stuff. Sometimes, though, I come home and I think, I will make him eat a healthy dinner. I look in the cupboards and the fridge and pull out some vegetables and think, I don’t even know how to actually cook these. Do you boil them?” She appeared suddenly defeated. The golden curry had seemed like a good option because at least it wasn’t breaded or fried. “I never even thought to look at the label. Is that something you could make without a cube?”

TERRI
    Terri was a soft-faced, strawberry-blond-haired forty-six-year-old who had ditched a law career in the wake of a crumbled marriage and battles with alcoholism a dozen years ago. She managed a small tourism business from her one-bedroom condo. Due to the sedentary nature of her work, plus a recent broken ankle, she figured she was forty pounds overweight. She was battling high blood pressure, among other health problems.
    Accumulated papers, brochures, magazines, newspapers, bills, and unopened junk mail rose like a small mountain off her dining room table, with a portion of the pile cascading like

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