arms to balance. Letâs do it together.â
You mimic everything Jean Paul does, and count along with him, hoping your French accent isnât too terrible. You know your
quatre
doesnât sound like his, for sure.
âGood, now faster!â he says.
You go faster, even though your shoulder muscles are starting to hurt from
un
âthe push-up maneuver. Once Jean Paul is happy with your stand-up speed, he wraps the surfboardâs Velcro ankle strap around your leg. You shiver when his fingers brush your skin.
âNow, the ocean!â he says. âIâll hold your board, and when a small wave is coming, Iâll tell you when to stand and let you go.â
You take a deep breath. You totally got the hang of standing on land, but standing in the water seems like another thing entirely.
âItâs okay if you fall,â Jean Paul says. He mustâve seen the fear on your face. âBesides, I named you a sea goddess. You were born for this, Amphitrite.â
You screw your courage to the sticking place, the way your tennis coach/ninth-grade English teacher always told you to do before a match. âAll right, Poseidon,â you say. âIâm ready.â
âFantastique!â
Jean Paul says.
He leaves his surfboard in the sand and heads into the ocean. You follow behind him, your board Velcroed to your leg.
âThis is good,â he tells you when the water is about waist deep. âNow, you lie down on your board, and get ready, and Iâll tell you when to go.â
He hangs on to the back of your surfboard and you balance on it like itâs a raft, but youâre not relaxed at all. Your arms are tense, your palms ready to push up at a momentâs notice.
âOkay,â Jean Paul says. âItâs coming . . . and . . . go!â
You count in your head,
un
,
deux
,
trois
,
quatre,
and youâre up! Youâre totally standing on a surfboard! Youâre surfing! And then just as quickly as youâre up, you feel the board wobble and youâre not balancing quite right, and you go tumbling into the water. But as you pop up, you know thereâs a huge grin on your face, because that felt awesome. It felt more than awesome. For a few seconds there, you really were Amphitrite, goddess of the sea.
âYou okay?â Jean Paul shouts. âThat was great for your first time! You made it up! Thatâs more than a lot of people can do.â
You walk through the water back to where you started. âIâm great!â you say.
âFantastique!â
âYou are,â he says, laughing. âYou want to do it again?â
âDefinitely,â you tell him.
You climb on board and wait again, and then Jean Paul lets go and the wave comes and youâre up again, and down again. You do it over and over and over, more times than you can count, but you canât seem to stay up for more than a few seconds.
âWhat am I doing wrong?â you ask Jean Paul.
âItâs here,â he says, touching your stomach. âYour core.â
You feel butterflies right where heâs touched you.
âAnd keep your legs loose. Not too tight. You need to feel the board and compensate.â
You take a breath. âOkay, one more time,â you say.
Youâre pretty sure youâve gone way over your half-hour lesson, but Jean Paul hasnât said anything, so you donât, either.
You climb on the board and get ready. He lets you go, you count to fourâin Frenchâand youâre up! You concentrate on keeping your legs loose and your core tight. The board moves, and you compensate. You do! It moves again, and youâre still standing. Your arms are out at your sides for extra balance, and you ride the wave all the way to shore. When you hit the sand, you jump off the board.
You turn around to look for Jean Paul, and you see him running toward you.
âCâest magnifique!â
he
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