Spotted Pigs and Green Tomatoes

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Authors: Rosie Boycott
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towns when supermarkets open,
     but a new study undertaken in East Suffolk between 1997 and 2004 shows what can happen if, as rarely occurs, local protesters
     have their way and a mega store is stopped in its tracks.
    In1997, one of the big chains applied for permission to build a store outside Saxmundham. To discover what effect this might
     have on local food producers and the local economy, eighty-one food shops in seven market towns and nineteen villages in the
     immediate area were asked to take part in a survey organised by the Campaign to Protect Rural England (CPRE). The shops were
     sourcing food from 300 local or regional food producers: sixty-seven of the eighty-one shops said they thought they would
     be forced to close if the superstore opened. All the producers who were interviewed said they had started small and depended
     on other small outlets for their survival. The producers and the retailers also supported a wide range of other businesses,
     such as builders, electricians, banks and accountants. After planning permission was refused, the local food economy continued
     to flourish.
    Seven years later, the CPRE went back to see what had happened to Saxmundham in its years without a mega store. They found
     that fourteen of the eighty-one shops had closed, but fourteen new ones had opened, including five with post offices. All
     the market towns still had their butchers, bakers, fish shops and greengrocers. There were more farm shops and more farmers'
     markets. Local and regional food suppliers had increased from 300 to 370. All the butchers had taken on more staff. Inevery area the rural food economy had flourished, providing greater choice and diversity. This diversity had attracted tourists
     who were fed up with the cloning of our towns, so restaurants, pubs and B&Bs were thriving. A local meat market meant more
     cattle and sheep grazing in fields, which also attracted tourists. Additionally, the local food economy had provided a seed
     bed for new businesses, and local shops continued to provide a meeting place for the elderly, the infirm and the young who
     can't drive.
    One of the most significant findings of the survey was the increasing demand for local and regional food. If there's a TV
     programme exposing illegal practices in the chicken industry, local butchers are always overwhelmed by demands for local birds.
     The more food is identified by its region, the greater confidence it inspires. Knowing that our vegetables and, in time, our
     pigs will wind up on tables within a few miles of our farm brings a real sense of responsibility. Supermarkets source only
     5 percent of their food locally (though recent surveys suggest that 70 percent of buyers would like to buy locally), and
     I can't imagine that the bosses in the southeast of England lose much sleep if there's an outbreak of salmonella in the northwest.

    Just as darkness falls, the Ilminster shopping evening gets under way. Up at the Meeting House, Bryan is organising and judging
     the children's fancy dress parade. Inthe market square, a children's orchestra is playing carols. A brightly lit teacup roundabout is parked outside the Co-op
     and hamburgers are cooking on a huge open barbecue. At 6.30, the Dazzling Sapphires, a cheerleader group of local schoolgirls,
     brave the cold in tutus and tights to pirouette down the street. They are followed by Santa Claus, who is followed by the
     fancy dress brigade. There are Red Riding Hoods and Captain Hooks, Oliver Twists and dashing White Knights. Mr B, dressed
     in top hat, grey waistcoat and pinstriped trousers, calls the crowd to order to present the prizes. Local MP David Laws congratulates
     the winners of the windows competition and then the vicar, Alistair Wallace, wearing full black robes, a wide-brimmed black
     felt hat and wire-framed glasses, and looking as though he has stepped straight out of the pages of Trollope, awards prizes
     to the children. The winner is five­year-old

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