Romancing the Roads

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Authors: Gerry Hempel Davis
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of this gathering spot. Originally just a small town in South Dakota with a drug store, a Catholic church, and fewer than five hundred very poor residents, Wall was transformed in or around 1931 when Dorothy and Ted Hustead bought the drug store. I think it was Dorothy who, after a rough start, came up with the idea of offering free ice water to travelers crossing the hot prairie. A burgeoning business was born. Now there are long blocks of tourist temptations in the numerous old-fashioned stores. Many consider Wall Drug a national institution, and it still offers free water. More than twenty thousand tourists stop at Wall on a typical summer day! Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., seven days a week, year-round, except New Year’s Day, Easter, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. I have learned that since I was at Wall, so much has been done: the mining and panning display has been enlarged, the shooting gallery has been doubled, there are two singing raccoons, the original pharmacy has been moved and enlarged, and the art collection is most impressive.
    Driving Diva Observation: See what happens when you have a p roduct that is in demand, the price is right (ice was free in Wall), the promotion is sensible, and theplace is convenient.
    A stone’s throw from Wall Drug is the Buffalo Gap National Grassland Visitors Center . Its slogan is “Anyone can love the mountains, but it takes soul to love the prairie.”
    Deadwood (Population Less Than 2,000)
    Readily accessible from I-90, Deadwood is a real cowboy, stagecoach, and gambling town, albeit with modern facilities, set in the Black Hills (actually they’re dark green). The entire city of Deadwood was named a National Historic Landmark; therefore, its original character and flavors have been maintained. I think you will find it hard not to like Deadwood. Do not think the town is without modern amenities. It has all the necessities, but the old-timey aspects add to its wonderful aura.
    History: In 1875 John B. Pearson found gold in a narrow canyon in the Black Hills, where, without question, the gold rush was on. Thousands of greedy and hopeful prospectors filled the area with competitive, rowdy tempers frequently flaring up. Deadwood proper was established in 1876. By 1877, the wild community was becoming more orderly and organized.
    In 1891, thanks to the railroad, Deadwood started to prosper, but wild shoot-’em-ups were still happening. Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane were often in town. It was in Deadwood that Wild Bill, while playing poker, was shot in the back of the head by Jack McCall. Wild Bill was holding a hand of aces and eights, now known as the “dead man’s hand.” And then there was the mysterious murder on a Sunday in 1876 of the Rev. Henry W. Smith (the first Methodist minister to come to the Black Hills). Needless to say, many of this ilk are buried in the Mount Moriah Cemetery on the fringe of the city, including Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane.
    Gambling and prostitution were common in this South Dakota town. Even during Prohibition a lot of these activities went on behind closed doors. Prostitution remained a business until 1950, when the state shut down many of the brothels. It wasn’t until 1980 that the last brothel, Pam’s Purple Door, was closed.
    In the 1980s local businessmen lobbied to legalize gambling to help increase tourism and preserve the historic buildings of Deadwood, many of which are Victorian in style.
    Each evening (except Sunday), there is a reenactment of the capture of Jack McCall on historic Main Street . All the spectators follow the actors to Old Town Hall for McCall’s trial. This is a must-do! A visit to this historic landmark city is indeed unique and an experience to be savored.
    Note: During the first two weeks of August, this area is visited by about five hundred thousand “hog riders”—motorcyclists attending the Sturgis Rally (www.sturgis.com). It is quite an event at which everything is going on and then

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