(more emulsified), but as it is thinned down with the haddock-cooking milk later, this is not the end of the world, culinary-wise.
To do this quick method, simply place the egg yolks in a small food processor with a splash of water, switch on and process until airy and pale. Heat the butter until quite hot and bubbling (use a small pan with a lip, to aid pouring) and, with the motor running, slowly pour in the butter until the sauce has become thick, as with making mayonnaise. You may like to add a touch of the melted butter’s milky residue, as the processor method usually makes a much thicker sauce. Season as explained on page 109 .
To make the hollandaise sauce, whisk together the egg yolks with a tiny splash of water in a stainless steel pan over a very low heat, until thick and smooth. Now, off the heat, continue to whisk while pouring in the melted butter in a thin stream, leaving behind the milky residue that has settled in the bottom of the butter pan. Season the sauce and sharpen with lemon juice, to taste. Keep warm.
To cook the smoked haddock, very gently poach the pieces in the milk on a low simmer for 2 minutes. Leave in the milk while you quickly prepare the spinach. Cook this in a large frying pan in the butter with a little seasoning, until wilted and glossy. Drain in a colander to remove excess liquid, then divide the spinach between 4 warmed plates. Fish out the 4 pieces of haddock from the milk, drain for a moment on paper towels, then place one on top of each plate of spinach.
For the sauce, loosen the hollandaise with a little of the poaching milk and whisk to a pouring consistency. Stir in the chives and spoon over the fish and spinach. Serve forthwith.
marinated sardine fillets
serves 4, as a first course
approx. 1½ lb very fresh, large sardines filleted, or use similar-sized herrings
2 oz sea salt
juice of 1 large lemon
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
a few black peppercorns, sprigs of fresh thyme, crumbled dried red chillies, a bay leaf or two
7–8 tbsp fruity olive oil
The instruction “Ask your fishmonger to fillet and bone the fish for you” fills me with fear and trepidation these days. I mean, just how many skilled fishmongers are there left? I recently saw a clutch of magazine recipes where the reader was instructed to ask his monger to de-beard his big bag of mussels … I imagine the muttered reply to this request would be, how shall we say, mostly unprintable, here.
Anyway, it
is
possible to do it yourself, with trial and error, but a truly dedicated fishmonger will be more than happy to, especially if you are a regular customer. Just give him some notice, is all I ask. The occasional supermarket fishmonger may also be able to help.
Put the fish fillets into a rectangular dish and strew with the salt. Cover, and put in the fridge for 24 hours, turning them once. Lift out the fillets, throw away the salty juices, rinse them and pat dry. Now, put the fillets into a plastic container that has a lid. Squeeze over the lemon juice, cover with the onions and scatter with the peppercorns, thyme, chillies, and bay. Spoon over the olive oil, put on the lid and place in a very cool place for 24 hours—preferably not in the fridge, unless the weather is more than clement. Remove to room temperature 1 hour before serving, decant on to a pretty serving dish, and eat with brown bread and butter. For a light lunch or supper dish, serve up with a bowl of hot, buttered new potatoes.
small dishes of kipper & tomato baked in cream
serves 2, for a light supper, or as a weekend breakfast treat
1 undyed kipper or smoked herring
a little soft butter
6 or 7 small to medium plum tomatoes
4–5 tbsp double or heavy cream
2 tsp English-made mustard (Colman’s, preferably)
a couple of pinches of curry powder
a touch of salt, if necessary
For the best flavor, here, use a whole, undyed kipper as instructed. However, if you are less than bold with bones, buy kipper fillets. The
To do this quick method, simply place the egg yolks in a small food processor with a splash of water, switch on and process until airy and pale. Heat the butter until quite hot and bubbling (use a small pan with a lip, to aid pouring) and, with the motor running, slowly pour in the butter until the sauce has become thick, as with making mayonnaise. You may like to add a touch of the melted butter’s milky residue, as the processor method usually makes a much thicker sauce. Season as explained on page 109 .
To make the hollandaise sauce, whisk together the egg yolks with a tiny splash of water in a stainless steel pan over a very low heat, until thick and smooth. Now, off the heat, continue to whisk while pouring in the melted butter in a thin stream, leaving behind the milky residue that has settled in the bottom of the butter pan. Season the sauce and sharpen with lemon juice, to taste. Keep warm.
To cook the smoked haddock, very gently poach the pieces in the milk on a low simmer for 2 minutes. Leave in the milk while you quickly prepare the spinach. Cook this in a large frying pan in the butter with a little seasoning, until wilted and glossy. Drain in a colander to remove excess liquid, then divide the spinach between 4 warmed plates. Fish out the 4 pieces of haddock from the milk, drain for a moment on paper towels, then place one on top of each plate of spinach.
For the sauce, loosen the hollandaise with a little of the poaching milk and whisk to a pouring consistency. Stir in the chives and spoon over the fish and spinach. Serve forthwith.
marinated sardine fillets
serves 4, as a first course
approx. 1½ lb very fresh, large sardines filleted, or use similar-sized herrings
2 oz sea salt
juice of 1 large lemon
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
a few black peppercorns, sprigs of fresh thyme, crumbled dried red chillies, a bay leaf or two
7–8 tbsp fruity olive oil
The instruction “Ask your fishmonger to fillet and bone the fish for you” fills me with fear and trepidation these days. I mean, just how many skilled fishmongers are there left? I recently saw a clutch of magazine recipes where the reader was instructed to ask his monger to de-beard his big bag of mussels … I imagine the muttered reply to this request would be, how shall we say, mostly unprintable, here.
Anyway, it
is
possible to do it yourself, with trial and error, but a truly dedicated fishmonger will be more than happy to, especially if you are a regular customer. Just give him some notice, is all I ask. The occasional supermarket fishmonger may also be able to help.
Put the fish fillets into a rectangular dish and strew with the salt. Cover, and put in the fridge for 24 hours, turning them once. Lift out the fillets, throw away the salty juices, rinse them and pat dry. Now, put the fillets into a plastic container that has a lid. Squeeze over the lemon juice, cover with the onions and scatter with the peppercorns, thyme, chillies, and bay. Spoon over the olive oil, put on the lid and place in a very cool place for 24 hours—preferably not in the fridge, unless the weather is more than clement. Remove to room temperature 1 hour before serving, decant on to a pretty serving dish, and eat with brown bread and butter. For a light lunch or supper dish, serve up with a bowl of hot, buttered new potatoes.
small dishes of kipper & tomato baked in cream
serves 2, for a light supper, or as a weekend breakfast treat
1 undyed kipper or smoked herring
a little soft butter
6 or 7 small to medium plum tomatoes
4–5 tbsp double or heavy cream
2 tsp English-made mustard (Colman’s, preferably)
a couple of pinches of curry powder
a touch of salt, if necessary
For the best flavor, here, use a whole, undyed kipper as instructed. However, if you are less than bold with bones, buy kipper fillets. The
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