softened, about 20 minutes. Drain the chili and chop.
In a large, deep skillet or Spanish cazuela, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the chopped chili and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic turns golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the paprika, the saffron, and the canned tomatoes and their juice. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thick and fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Transfer to a blender or food processor, and puree until smooth, about 1 minute.
No need to clean the skillet. Use it to heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the carrots, fennel, and scallions. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables relax and are gilded with oil, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until the mushrooms darken and become tender, another 5 minutes. Return the chili-tomato sauce to the skillet and stir to combine. Add 1 cup of the vegetable broth and stir for just a few minutes, until a thickish sauce forms.
Add the quinoa and an additional 1 cup broth to the skillet. Stir gently, reduce the heat to medium, and cook without stirring, rotating the skillet occasionally to distribute the heat evenly. After 10 minutes, add the remaining 2 cups broth and cook until all the liquid is absorbed and the quinoa grains have popped and expanded, about 10 minutes. Taste and give it a good seasoning of sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
Gently press the artichoke hearts, red bell pepper strips, and cherry tomatoes into the top of the paella. Be artsy. Remove the paella pan from the heat and cover with a lid or wrap tightly with aluminum foil. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
Garnish with parsley and feathery fennel fronds.
Experience has taught me coaxing out someone’s inner aphrodisiac means coupling the familiar with the exotic — scenting homey apple crumble with earthy cardamom, leavening a typically heavy meal with an ethereal soufflé. It means giving someone the welcome of the known, but giving it a twist, so you taste something familiar in a whole new way. It is discovery, it is revelation, it is like falling in love with what you already know. Having a warm heart in the kitchen counts, too. Seduction in the bedroom or the kitchen is harder when you’re feeling pissy.
In some ways, I still cook to seduce. Or please. Or comfort. I’m a married woman, after all. Benjamin eats what I cook every day and loves what I feed him, whether it’s lentil soup or cardamom-scented apple crumble or ripe, naked berries. This is not why I married him. But it’s nice.
I still love cardamom and add it to dishes from curries to crumbles. Because you never know.
Amorous Cardamom Apple Crumble
Admit it, you were waiting for this recipe. It’s wonderful eaten warm and naked, by you and your love, clothing optional.
Serves 6 to 8 — or 2 very turned-on people with lots of leftovers
Oil for the pie pan
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup old-fashioned oats (also known as rolled oats)
1½ cups brown sugar
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
2½ teaspoons ground cardamom
½ cup (1 stick) vegan margarine, such as Earth Balance, softened
6 apples, preferably a combination of tart and sweet, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly oil a 9-inch pie pan.
In a medium bowl, combine ¾ cup of the flour, the oats, ¾ cup of the brown sugar, the lemon zest, and 1½ teaspoons of the cardamom. Stir together until the mixture is combined. Work in the vegan margarine until the mixture just turns into a crumble. A food processor can do the job in less than a minute — be careful not to overmix. Using a wooden mixing spoon gives you greater crumb control and lets you put extra heart into it — it’ll take a couple minutes. Set the crumb mixture aside.
Put the apple slices in a large bowl, pour the lemon juice over all, and toss together. Add the remaining ¾ cup brown sugar, the remaining 2 tablespoons flour, the
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