lost her to the surfer dudes on her right while I was trying to think of the theme song to Family Ties . The surfers were sitting on the dock with their feet in the water, just like us. They had classic six pack surfer dude bodies, both of them. “ You build callouses. We weren’t born with shoes.” I had suggested wine and lobster, my treat. I wanted to get to know her better – what we were to each other. Instead we got quick mystery street meat in front of our bar for the night, The Wreck Deck -- a rancho covered dance bar with docks built over the sunken ship. Tonight it was filled with rum infused tourists and horny, aggressive locals. After telling travel stories that made them feel superior to their fellow backpackers and exchanging compliments on their tats, they started to ask María questions. Since they are used to comparing notes on how cheap their tickets to Panama City were, they were captivated to hear how she crossed overland from Colombia, through the Darien jungle. “ There was this one day I had to take a shit,” María said. The hipster and nerd pricked up their ears too now. “The Embera Indians pointed to this wooden structure at the far end of the village, near forest. It was a high wooden platform, something like a water tower except there was no water tank – just a hole in the floor. I hate heights, they freak me out but I had to go real bad so climbed this creaky old tower and I just squatted over the hole. Looking down between my legs, I am confused. Nobody else’s pooh is on the ground below. Then there is a rustling in the trees behind me. Before my pooh hits the ground, a group of crazy black pigs run from the forest, and then they just suck it right up. Before I even pull up my panties they have disappeared again. I wonder if I dreamed the whole thing.” I can’t help but look at the open mouthed surfer dudes and think they are like the wild boars eating up her shit. I am jealous, I know. I have always wanted a six pack. María is beautiful even when she stands and mimics taking a shit. I have learned a few more things about María since the day she took the valium on the bus and ended up covered in urine. María never learned shame. She is not afraid to be the center of attention and is not afraid to cross dangerous jungle alone. (But the fear of falling will bring her to tears.) She unapologetically sucks up life. She pees by the side of the road in full view of traffic. She steals restaurant tablecloths and sleeps on dangerous beaches. If you believe her stories, she fights back when she’s being robbed to the point that either she or the mugger ends up battered and bruised. She accepts foot rubs from horny strangers with fetishes. She jumps off of cruise ships she’s worked on because the water looked nice. Her motto is, strangers have the best candy. She smokes weed in front of Panamanian cops. She hops the kiosk counter to demonstrate how to make real fried plantains. She searches deserted beaches for quiet locations to masturbate. She adopts strays. She learned English at a posh boarding school but never speaks about her parents. She is a stray that accepts adoption. I realize that I am only one fifth of a family that has adopted María. It is because of this that I stole her away with me to Bocas Del Toro. Travel is life on speed. I dragged María onto a boat taking partiers across to the next island for the full moon party. We were early – the moon hadn’t yet risen. Low tide stretched the beach out more than 50 meters so we walked to a normally submerged sandpit in water only a few inches deep. We lay together in the wet sand looking up at the stars. Except for heavy bass thumping from a bar far in the distance, everything was silent. While waiting for falling stars, something dark flashed in my peripheral vision. Then we notice dark things flying over us. At first I thought they were bats. Bats often come out in Panama at night and flash by so quickly that