Read Online The Places in Between by Rory Stewart - Free Book Online

speak the woman cut in. "If I can just interrupt," she said, smiling. "Can we have a private interview?"
    Ismail Khan looked at her and then said, "Of course, why not? Come tomorrow."
    There was a mutter from other journalists whose interview requests had been refused.
    "Mr. Stewart..."
    I leaned forward. "Agha Ismail Khan," I said, and paused. I wanted to speak in Persian, but I felt self-conscious in front of the interpreters, so I continued in English. "I am a British writer, focusing on the history and culture of Afghanistan." Yuzufi nodded encouragement. "I am planning to walk on foot to Kabul, via Bamiyan, not using a vehicle. I would like to thank His Excellency Yuzufi for his support." I glanced at Ismail Khan. He was looking at a Koranic inscription on the wall. I skipped a few sentences. "I am following the route of the Emperor Babur, who did this journey in the winter of 1506. I am hoping that I can show my people what a wonderful place Afghanistan is."
    There was a long pause. The journalists stared at me. Ismail Khan turned to Yuzufi, who whispered something. Then the governor looked at me. "A big journey, which I would like to support. Tell me please if there is anything I can do to help. But"—he paused, apparently confused—"this journey is not possible in the winter. I know this. I have fought in the region at this season."
    I wondered whether I could ask him to tell the Security Service to leave me alone, but Yuzufi had raised his hand as though to tell me to stop. "Thank you," I said. The governor smiled broadly and the audience was over.
     
     
    Yuzufi insisted I travel in his van back to the hotel because it was after curfew. "You are very lucky," he said. "What the governor said is more important than you know—I will write a note saying you are under his protection. Now you will be stronger with the Security Service." Yuzufi seemed relieved by how the press conference had gone. I said I thought his job must be a difficult one.
    "Ah, Rory, how you understand me," he said, laughing. "This morning a woman came in from a New York journal..."
    "My friend Carlotta from the New York Times? "
    "Perhaps. She said that it is 'the most important newspaper in the world' and I must arrange a private interview with His Excellency. I almost believed her but another woman came here. From CNN. Apparently that is also 'the most important in the world.' Who can I believe? Now I have canceled them both and told them to come to the press conference with"—he paused—" Newsday, the Christian Science Monitor. Have I done correctly?"
    Before I could answer, three men stepped into the center of the road and pointed their automatics at the van's windshield. They were the curfew guard. After Yuzufi got out to explain who we were, we were allowed slowly forward. "It must be satisfying to have this much influence," I said.
    "Not for me. Although I admire His Excellency I would like to go to England to study a master's degree and to serve as an ambassador overseas," said Yuzufi. He looked out the window. The power had been cut and Herat was dark. Another group of policemen stopped us. Yuzufi paused before speaking to them. "Nothing changes in Herat," he said.

CARAVANSERAI, WHOSE PORTALS...
    Two days later in the desert, Yuzufi, the journalists, and Ismail Khan seemed remote. Qasim and Aziz were finding walking increasingly difficult. Qasim kept saying we should travel by bus.
    At dusk, we saw a fortified building on the plain to the south and beyond it a village. Since we had no tents, I suggested we find somewhere to sleep. Qasim replied that there were bad men in the village and they wouldn't receive us. I said I'd often walked into villages without an introduction. Abdul Haq shrugged and turned off the footpath, striding across the desert toward the building. For a moment I considered walking in Abdul Haq's footsteps to avoid mines, but I was embarrassed to let him take the risk alone so I walked beside him.
    "Do you