The New Rules for Blondes

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Authors: Selena Coppock
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describe a warmer blonde tone. A warm blonde occurs naturally in people with a golden or yellow undertone to their skin and green, hazel, brown, or amber eyes; whose hair is naturally red, brown, strawberry blonde, or golden brown; who can tan easily; and who look better in gold than silver.
    We’ve talked plenty about going blonde, and any colorist will tell you that it’s always safer to go lighter. Highlights are an easy, low-commitment, and flattering way to play with hair color. The request that gives pause to most colorists is when a blonde client comes into the salon and asks to be made a brunette. “That’s when you get into the emotional needs of the client,” Michael explained. Every colorist with a few years of experience has witnessed a client have a blonde-to-brunette freak-out. As I did back in 2000 when I followed the lead of Cameron Diaz (circa January 2000 when she went bold brown for a minute) and became an almost black-haired lady (more on this dark period in my life can be found in Chapter 10). I forced my mother’s beloved colorist to make me a dark, severe brunette, and I regretted it within forty-eight hours. 38 Make no mistake: Blonde to brunette is a major adjustment. Every fall and winter when I would mention lowlights and toy with the idea of going light brunette for a bit, my old colorist Reinaldo would just nod, smile, and mix more caramel-hued dye for my highlights. He knew that I’d ultimately hate darker hair, and he was right.
    Michael went on: “When a client comes in asking to go darker, you spend a while talking them out of it. You walk them through every step: what you’ll do to take them to brunette, then what you’ll have to do to correct it or undo it. The time, the process, the potential for doing a color removal (which just completely strips the hair of applied color)—it’s a lot to take on. And even if they push-push-push and insist that they want to go brunette for a change, most of them freak out and want it undone within a few weeks.”
    There are plenty of hair color phenomena that are more quotidian than hot roots, chemical cuts, and dramatic color changes. You’re probably familiar with a partial foil, which is when highlights are applied using tin foil to isolate the pieces. This is done over half of the head—usually just the crown to the ears. A full foil is the same thing across the entire head. Other options when it comes to foils are T-section (when foils are applied in a T formation on the head—the top and sides receive foil packets) and Starburst (which isn’t an overrated, waxy candy but rather when five to seven packets of foils are applied on the top of the head). Highlights are streaks used to subtly lighten you color, and in contrast, lowlights are streaks that darken your color. The same method of application is used for highlights and lowlights, though—small sections of hair are painted, then wrapped in foil to isolate. A solid or uniform color is one that doesn’t have highlights or lowlights—it’s very monotone in hue. This is what lots of Special Blondes are: Their hair is entirely one uniform shade, and there aren’t other colors woven in for depth.
    Michael’s training and expertise has given us a strong base for what to expect in the salon with hair color. But what about at-home tricks and tips? This is where my lifelong hair obsession finally comes in handy. Throughout my childhood and teenager years, I engaged in a lot of trial by fire with hair color, assorted hair products, and hairstyles. Finally I can feel like the ugliness of those years (and years) of perms was not in vain. I can share my lessons with you, dear reader.
    Personally, I have fine hair, as do many natural blondes. Just look at the three daughters in The Brady Bunch —all had very fine, occasionally limp hair. How do you care for hair like that, living in this crazy world of shampoo and conditioner? I’ll tell you the key for fine-haired ladies: Don’t

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