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Authors: Selena Coppock
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out my assumption was incorrect and they were just trying to get some color, but things went way wrong.
But back at the natural color scale, let’s explore an example. Say you have a woman who is a natural 3 (medium-brown hair) who wants to try her hand at blondeness (try her head at blondeness, really) and is shooting to end up at an 8. If she’s smart, she’ll make that type of drastic jump at the salon and put her hair in the hands of a trained professional. In my estimation, 99 percent of at-home, brown-to-blonde coloring sessions result in orange hair. Remember Brenda Walsh’s orange dome from Beverly Hills, 90210 ? At least that was a realistic portrayal of what can happen. That’s more than I can say for The Smurfs . When Gargamel first “created” Smurfette (creepy?), she had black hair. It wasn’t until Papa Smurf stayed up all night making her into a real Smurf that Smurfette become blonde. Apparently, in the Smurf world, “stayed up all night” means “executed a feat of hair color change that can never be done anywhere outside of the drawing room at Hanna-Barbera Productions.” Don’t follow the lead of Papa Smurf and attempt to change black hair to blonde both at home and overnight. Put yourself in the trained hands of a professional: a colorist. Colorists are trained in assessing the underlying pigments of your hair; knowing what can and cannot be accomplished with peroxide, glaze, and timing; and memorizing which color combinations create other colors. They must regularly refer back to the color wheel and the range of 1 to 10 in which they are constantly creating colors.
Another piece of hair color jargon that indicates less-than-desirable results is “hot roots.” The label “hot roots” sounds more like a reality TV show in which successful supermodels return to their humble hometowns, but it’s actually used to describe the phenomenon of the root part of the hair strand becoming brighter and more vibrant in color than the rest of the hair. Your head naturally emits heat, and when hair color is applied to the full strand, the section that is closest to your hot dome will sometimes absorb color more quickly that the rest of the shaft. This is why colorists usually pile all your hair atop your head and stick you under a heater after they apply color—so all of the hair is evenly heated and thus develops uniformly and you don’t get hot roots.
I asked Michael about the two types of blondes: ashy and brassy. She told me that the industry standard is to refer to these as “cool” and “warm,” respectively. “Cool” (or what I still like to call “ashy” because I’m like Sinatra and I’ll do it my way, thank you very much) is synonymous with champagne- or platinum-blonde hair. One also might hear descriptors such as “soft beige,” “soft silver,” and “lilac champagne” to describe levels of cool blonde. Michael has heard this referred to as “Upper East Side blonde,” and it’s naturally found on white people with fair skin and light-blue, gray-blue, gray-green, or blue-gray eyes, who sunburn easily and look best in silver (instead of gold). The natural hair colors that are considered cool include blue-black, dark brown, medium ash, ashy blonde, and light brown. Regardless of what color they have naturally, women who want cool blonde hair are oftentimes a bit older and from the Upper East Side of Manhattan or somewhere equally WASPy. Older blondes who regularly get cool highlights can stumble into purple quite easily because they are adding ashy tones to gray or white hair. When hair is gray, there is no pigment, so colors can end up being very bold because the hair is a pigment-less vessel of display. Check back to your handy chart in Chapter 1 for reference.
“Warm” (or what I call “brassy”) is the golden California blonde that is quite popular in Texas and Los Angeles. “Honey caramel,” “butter pecan,” and “bronze” are adjectives often used to
But back at the natural color scale, let’s explore an example. Say you have a woman who is a natural 3 (medium-brown hair) who wants to try her hand at blondeness (try her head at blondeness, really) and is shooting to end up at an 8. If she’s smart, she’ll make that type of drastic jump at the salon and put her hair in the hands of a trained professional. In my estimation, 99 percent of at-home, brown-to-blonde coloring sessions result in orange hair. Remember Brenda Walsh’s orange dome from Beverly Hills, 90210 ? At least that was a realistic portrayal of what can happen. That’s more than I can say for The Smurfs . When Gargamel first “created” Smurfette (creepy?), she had black hair. It wasn’t until Papa Smurf stayed up all night making her into a real Smurf that Smurfette become blonde. Apparently, in the Smurf world, “stayed up all night” means “executed a feat of hair color change that can never be done anywhere outside of the drawing room at Hanna-Barbera Productions.” Don’t follow the lead of Papa Smurf and attempt to change black hair to blonde both at home and overnight. Put yourself in the trained hands of a professional: a colorist. Colorists are trained in assessing the underlying pigments of your hair; knowing what can and cannot be accomplished with peroxide, glaze, and timing; and memorizing which color combinations create other colors. They must regularly refer back to the color wheel and the range of 1 to 10 in which they are constantly creating colors.
Another piece of hair color jargon that indicates less-than-desirable results is “hot roots.” The label “hot roots” sounds more like a reality TV show in which successful supermodels return to their humble hometowns, but it’s actually used to describe the phenomenon of the root part of the hair strand becoming brighter and more vibrant in color than the rest of the hair. Your head naturally emits heat, and when hair color is applied to the full strand, the section that is closest to your hot dome will sometimes absorb color more quickly that the rest of the shaft. This is why colorists usually pile all your hair atop your head and stick you under a heater after they apply color—so all of the hair is evenly heated and thus develops uniformly and you don’t get hot roots.
I asked Michael about the two types of blondes: ashy and brassy. She told me that the industry standard is to refer to these as “cool” and “warm,” respectively. “Cool” (or what I still like to call “ashy” because I’m like Sinatra and I’ll do it my way, thank you very much) is synonymous with champagne- or platinum-blonde hair. One also might hear descriptors such as “soft beige,” “soft silver,” and “lilac champagne” to describe levels of cool blonde. Michael has heard this referred to as “Upper East Side blonde,” and it’s naturally found on white people with fair skin and light-blue, gray-blue, gray-green, or blue-gray eyes, who sunburn easily and look best in silver (instead of gold). The natural hair colors that are considered cool include blue-black, dark brown, medium ash, ashy blonde, and light brown. Regardless of what color they have naturally, women who want cool blonde hair are oftentimes a bit older and from the Upper East Side of Manhattan or somewhere equally WASPy. Older blondes who regularly get cool highlights can stumble into purple quite easily because they are adding ashy tones to gray or white hair. When hair is gray, there is no pigment, so colors can end up being very bold because the hair is a pigment-less vessel of display. Check back to your handy chart in Chapter 1 for reference.
“Warm” (or what I call “brassy”) is the golden California blonde that is quite popular in Texas and Los Angeles. “Honey caramel,” “butter pecan,” and “bronze” are adjectives often used to
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