Read Online Sunrises to Santiago: Searching for Purpose on the Camino de Santiago by Gabriel Schirm - Free Book Online Page A
Authors: Gabriel Schirm
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when I look in the
mirror. Well-meaning friends and family tell me that it is unique. It
makes me who I am. I think it looks like a permanent black eye and
will ensure I will die alone with 10 cats. I desperately want to look
like everybody else. Eventually I go through a series of expensive
laser treatments to have it removed. With each treatment a metal
contact lens is shoved into my eye to protect it from the laser. Then
the skin is blasted with an intense beam. This is the easy part. For
weeks after the treatment, my eye is red, puffy, and oozing blood. I
avoid people at all costs until a blister forms and falls off leaving
the birthmark a few shades lighter than before. This takes years, and
costs thousands of dollars. It works, and I feel normal. No one asks
me what happened to my eye anymore. My confidence grows.
We
come to a high point with sweeping views of Logro ñ o
behind us and a busy highway below. I notice woven into the chain
link fence beside the trail are hundreds upon hundreds of tiny
crosses that pilgrims have weaved into the twisted wires of the
fence. They use string, twigs, plastic, weeds, or anything that can
be used as a makeshift cross.
The
pilgrim ’ s
office in Santiago keeps detailed statistics every year about the
Camino de Santiago. When you get to the office to claim your
compostela, they will ask you to check one of three boxes that
defines your reason for walking to Santiago. In 2013, 39.97% of the
pilgrims who walked the Camino de Santiago did so for “religious
purposes.” Like me, 54.56% took on the challenge for “spiritual,
cultural or other reasons.” Only 5.47% checked the box for “no
religious motivation.” 1 The tiny crosses left here by the “religious purposes” group
go on for a mile or so entwined into the long fence. An incredible
sight.
The
pain in my left knee is still a constant companion and starts to
swell again as the hours pass. I know they mean well, but I start
resenting every person who passes me, young and old, asking if I am
going to be alright and then giving me their opinion about how
unlikely it is I will be able to finish. I am still focused on one
step at a time as we slowly close in on a colossal 30-kilometer day.
The last hour of every day is always the hardest, and we finally make
it to Nájera for the night. We again decide to splurge on a private
room.
Nájera
is a small historic pilgrim town. With a population of about 7,000,
it has a long history with the Camino de Santiago. 2 Cathedrals in town contain pilgrim works of art, and Roman artifacts
can be found in the local museum. Like many towns on the Camino de
Santiago, pilgrims provide a huge boost to the local economy.
Sometimes the only source of income and the main industry in town.
Unfortunately, every single step counts, so I will be seeing none of
the artifacts here. If it is not directly on the path, we will miss
it. We are on a budget, too, and have to watch our extra spending
money. So far we have spent about 35 euros per person per day, which
is starting to add up. A bed at an albergue normally costs about 9
euros per person. A private room costs about 20 euros per person.
Food has been about 22 euros per person each day. Our budget is 1,000
euros per person for the entire trip, which works out to roughly 33
euros a day.
After
sitting through dinner, my body clenches up around itself, and when I
try to move again it creaks and aches and screams, “NO!” We shall
see how far we get tomorrow. I had no idea how physically challenging
the Camino de Santiago was going to be.
Camino Surprises
Trail
Days 9—10
The
day begins with the ninth sunrise seen in nine days. Little did I
know what amazing things today would hold. The Camino de Santiago is
full of surprises. Soon the orange rays of the sun peek above the
hills, and the Way is illuminated. The soreness of yesterday ’ s
walk gingerly melts into today ’ s
new and fresh pain.
Slowly
the miles of vineyards get left behind
mirror. Well-meaning friends and family tell me that it is unique. It
makes me who I am. I think it looks like a permanent black eye and
will ensure I will die alone with 10 cats. I desperately want to look
like everybody else. Eventually I go through a series of expensive
laser treatments to have it removed. With each treatment a metal
contact lens is shoved into my eye to protect it from the laser. Then
the skin is blasted with an intense beam. This is the easy part. For
weeks after the treatment, my eye is red, puffy, and oozing blood. I
avoid people at all costs until a blister forms and falls off leaving
the birthmark a few shades lighter than before. This takes years, and
costs thousands of dollars. It works, and I feel normal. No one asks
me what happened to my eye anymore. My confidence grows.
We
come to a high point with sweeping views of Logro ñ o
behind us and a busy highway below. I notice woven into the chain
link fence beside the trail are hundreds upon hundreds of tiny
crosses that pilgrims have weaved into the twisted wires of the
fence. They use string, twigs, plastic, weeds, or anything that can
be used as a makeshift cross.
The
pilgrim ’ s
office in Santiago keeps detailed statistics every year about the
Camino de Santiago. When you get to the office to claim your
compostela, they will ask you to check one of three boxes that
defines your reason for walking to Santiago. In 2013, 39.97% of the
pilgrims who walked the Camino de Santiago did so for “religious
purposes.” Like me, 54.56% took on the challenge for “spiritual,
cultural or other reasons.” Only 5.47% checked the box for “no
religious motivation.” 1 The tiny crosses left here by the “religious purposes” group
go on for a mile or so entwined into the long fence. An incredible
sight.
The
pain in my left knee is still a constant companion and starts to
swell again as the hours pass. I know they mean well, but I start
resenting every person who passes me, young and old, asking if I am
going to be alright and then giving me their opinion about how
unlikely it is I will be able to finish. I am still focused on one
step at a time as we slowly close in on a colossal 30-kilometer day.
The last hour of every day is always the hardest, and we finally make
it to Nájera for the night. We again decide to splurge on a private
room.
Nájera
is a small historic pilgrim town. With a population of about 7,000,
it has a long history with the Camino de Santiago. 2 Cathedrals in town contain pilgrim works of art, and Roman artifacts
can be found in the local museum. Like many towns on the Camino de
Santiago, pilgrims provide a huge boost to the local economy.
Sometimes the only source of income and the main industry in town.
Unfortunately, every single step counts, so I will be seeing none of
the artifacts here. If it is not directly on the path, we will miss
it. We are on a budget, too, and have to watch our extra spending
money. So far we have spent about 35 euros per person per day, which
is starting to add up. A bed at an albergue normally costs about 9
euros per person. A private room costs about 20 euros per person.
Food has been about 22 euros per person each day. Our budget is 1,000
euros per person for the entire trip, which works out to roughly 33
euros a day.
After
sitting through dinner, my body clenches up around itself, and when I
try to move again it creaks and aches and screams, “NO!” We shall
see how far we get tomorrow. I had no idea how physically challenging
the Camino de Santiago was going to be.
Camino Surprises
Trail
Days 9—10
The
day begins with the ninth sunrise seen in nine days. Little did I
know what amazing things today would hold. The Camino de Santiago is
full of surprises. Soon the orange rays of the sun peek above the
hills, and the Way is illuminated. The soreness of yesterday ’ s
walk gingerly melts into today ’ s
new and fresh pain.
Slowly
the miles of vineyards get left behind
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