hiking club will be coming backâtheyâll be here all day ï¬lling up their jugs.â
As if on cue, a yell of
âyaw-HO!â
drifted from down the summit. Where did those old people get their energy? Maybe there really was medicine in the water â¦
I stuck my index ï¬nger in the stream, which was freezing. The water looked clear, but I knew that didnât mean anything. At the Motherland Program orientation, they had warned us about the water. More than half the countryâs people lived in Seoul, we were told, so the overtaxed, outdated water system was teeming with bacteria. They told us to buy the two-liter jugs of puriï¬ed water and keep them in our rooms, even for brushing our teeth.
Donât drink water in restaurants unless you know for sure itâs been boiled. Donât drink anything with ice in it, donât eat ice cream from a street vendor, no raw fruits or vegetables that arenât peeled, donât eat at a
neng myun
restaurant unless you know for sure itâs clean
.
âIn July, watch out for
chang-ma
, too,â Bernie Lee had added. âWhen it comes, donât open your mouth or let it fall on your head or youâll go bald.â
Everyone had laughed in recognition and appreciation, except for me, who didnât know what
chang-ma
was. I worried that it was some kind of malignant animal that fell from the skyâa rain of Wizard-of-Oz monkeys that pulled out your hair. Only later would I ï¬nd out that it was the monsoon rains that came in the summer. The black exhaust from the belching buses, the industrial smokestacks, all this stuff that gave Seoul its odd, sulfurous light was sent back to earth in this impure rain.
Who knew where this
yak-su
water was coming from, how much acid rain it had absorbed? Upstream, there could be any number of animals adding fecal matter and
E. coli
bacteria. And what about the microbial dangers, parasites? Amoebic dysentery? Even the thought of allowing benign but wiggling organismsâhydras, parameciaâinto my digestive system made me feel woozy.
The voices drew closer.
âMan-sei!â
âYaw-HO!â
I cupped my palms and drank. The cold water thundered down to my stomach, my ï¬llings jackhammered into my jaw. I opened my mouth to gasp, and an
aaahhhh
soundâthe same one Ken makes when he drinks a cold beer in Augustâemerged. I plunged in again, drinking until I thought my stomach would burst. The taste was pure, primordial, as if I was resting my tongue on a cool, clean slab of granite.
Further up the mountain, we sat at a bench, a split log.
A gazebo-like wood structure was perched on a cliff a few hundred feet above us. I saw no paths leading up to it. Painted in muted greens and browns, it looked like a part of the mountain itself. I wanted to ask Doug Henderson if he knew what it was, but then decided I wanted to preserve my cover as a ânormalâ Korean for a little longer.
A warm breeze blew across us.
âSo if you were born here, whatâs the deal with your Korean?â he said.
âWhat do you mean, âwhatâs the dealâ?â
âYou sound like youâre completely unfamiliar with it.â
I thought I had been getting better. The last time Jun-Ho and I had met, he had complimented me on my pronunciation. I had had a wild thought of henceforth telling people my name was Sarah Kim and trying to âpass.â But reality was intruding.
âIâm adopted,â I snarled. âIt wasnât
my
decision to grow up in a white family in the fucking Midwest.â
Doug fumbled in his little rucksack, so I couldnât see the reaction on his faceâshock, pity, recognition? He handed me a
mok kehndi
.
Mok kehndi
, âvoice candy,â were basically just cough drops, but I loved their sticky, weedy taste. Doug ate them constantly, he said, because the pollution made his throat scratchy. They were only a chunwon, a
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