huh.â
Before we left, Doug returned with more Lotte gum. These came with a suspicious picture of a ï¬ower on the label, but they had a sweet coffee ï¬avor that lasted about three chews before the whole thing became a tasteless wad. Outside, the peony globes were covered with ants, like moving black sprinkles on spumoni ice cream cones.
âWould you like to take a walk?â he said, when we were back on campus.
âUm, sure.â I was realizing I hadnât done much exploring beyond the Language Institute, the 7-Eleven, and the Balzac coffeehouse. I kept forgetting that our school was just one tiny building occupying a corner of a huge university ï¬lled with Korean students.
Some of the Chosun Daehakyo students were passing us now. The girls walking arm-in-arm in tight jeans and platform shoes, the guys in sweater vests, hair greased back à la Kenâs high school pictures, some also arm-in-arm.
We veered to a path that led behind a dingy building, test tubes crusted with frosty white precipitates airing out in the open windows. The dirt path ascended directly up a mountainâa random peak erupting in the middle of campus. In a few minutes of upward hiking, I could smell pine. I could also see smog padding the city below.
âWhere are we going?â
âYak-Su,â Doug said.
A noise, like the cackling of chickens. From behind us, a dozen octogenarian Korean men and women gained on us. They were clad in some serious Sound of Music hiking gearâTyrolean hats, wool pants held up with suspenders, knee socks with alpine patterns, hiking boots, gnarled-wood walking sticks. They were all carrying empty plastic jugs.
âTheyâre going to Yak-Su, too,â Doug said, as the group, amazingly, pistoned past us up the steepening slope, their happy chatter unabated. Soon, they disappeared beyond a bend in the trail.
Doug stopped where the trail continued up to the summit and another trail broke off to the left. He pointed to the sign.
Two simple syllables, no diphthongs, even. Yak and Su.   and  .
âOh, Yak-Su,â I said. âWeâre here.â
He nodded, then started down the left-hand trail, which ended abruptly at a lone metal pipe emerging from a rock. It was dribbling water into a rusty drain; a middle-aged Korean woman squatted like a frog next to it, alternately ï¬lling up a pink plastic dipper and drinking from it. By her feet sat a plastic jug, ï¬lled to the brim with water.
âThe Stamp
ajuhshi
told me this is some of the best
yak-su
in the city.â
âOh, um, really?â I said, suddenly realizing that
yak-su
was a thing, not a place.
âYouâve never had
yak-su
?â I shook my head. From his voice, I felt as if I should have, or at the very least, should know what it was. I just stared ahead blankly.
âYou know, âmedicine water,â the spring water that ï¬ows off the mountain.â
âOh, yeah.â
The woman placed the huge water-ï¬lled jug on her head and began to amble down the slope, even singing as she went. Doug bent down by the dribbly stream, his body folding quite naturally into the ladyâs same squat. He picked up the pink dipper, which sheâd left on top of a rock.
âYouâre not going to drink from that, are you?â
He looked at me, then laughed. âOf course I am. Weâre all Korean. We can share germs.â
âButââ
âAt home, donât you all eat from the same bowl? You see at the restaurant how the
ajuhmas
put our leftover kimchi and stuff from the tables back into the pot, right?â
I wish he hadnât told me that.
He took a draught and then handed me the dipper.
âI think Iâll passâIâm not that thirsty,â I said, my tongue folding like cardboard in my mouth.
He shrugged. âUse your hands if you donât want to use the cup. I mean, we came all this way. And hurry, the
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