Read Online Saveur: The New Comfort Food by James Oseland - Free Book Online
Authors: James Oseland
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minced
2 ribs celery, minced
2 lbs. ground beef chuck
½ cup dry red wine
2¾ cups canned tomato purée Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 lbs. fresh tagliatelle or fettuccine Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
Serves 8
1. Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are somewhat softened, about 8 minutes.
2. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the beef, and cook, stirring constantly, until the meat is broken up and just cooked through, about 7 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until evaporated, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato purée and 1½ cups water and bring to a boil over high heat.
3. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick, about 2 hours. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Bring a 6-qt. pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring, until al dente, or according to the package directions. Drain the pasta, transfer to a bowl, and toss with about half of the ragù, reserving the rest for another use. Serve warm with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Homemade Tagliatelle
Many Bolognese pasta makers roll their pasta dough by hand to make tagliatelle, but we found that using a hand-cranked pasta roller and cutting the dough with a knife yields excellent results.
A On a clean surface, form 3 cups flour into a mound; create a well in center. Sprinkle 1 tsp. kosher salt over flour. Add 3 eggs, 1 egg yolk, 2 tbsp. water, and 1 tbsp. olive oil to well.
B Using a fork, incorporate eggs and liquid in a circular motion, pulling in small amounts of flour until dough becomes stiff.
C Knead dough, adding a little flour as necessary, until it’s smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap; let rest for 30 minutes.
D Cut dough into quarters.
E Flatten 1 quarter into a rectangle (cover others with a towel). Pass dough through a hand-cranked pasta roller set at widest setting.
F Fold dough in thirds, creating another rectangle; feed open edge through roller set at widest setting. Fold again; roll twice more using same setting. Decrease setting one notch and roll the pasta through again; repeat, decreasing setting each time until you’ve reached the second-to-last setting, creating a 1/16-inch thick sheet.
G Sprinkle sheet with flour; halve crosswise. Transfer to flour-dusted parchment paper. Repeat with the remaining dough, adding flour-dusted parchment paper between each layer.
H Tightly roll each sheet, from short end to short end; cut cylinder crosswise into 3 / 8 -inch wide strips. Unroll strips and toss with flour; spread on a floured parchment sheet. Let dry for 30 minutes. To serve: Cook tagliatelle in salted boiling water until al dente, about 3–4 minutes. Drain; transfer to a bowl and toss with 2 cups ragù (or more, to taste); see Pasta with Ragù recipe . Serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Serves 4
Bucatini with Spicy Tomato Sauce
Bucatini all’Amatriciana
This Roman classic is flavored with guanciale, or cured pork jowl, though pancetta is a fine substitute. Toasting the black pepper in the fat rendered out from the guanciale boosts the flavor of this sauce.
3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 oz. thinly sliced guanciale or pancetta, cut into
¾-inch pieces Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small carrot, minced
½ medium onion, minced
½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
1 28-oz. can peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, undrained and puréed Kosher salt, to taste
1 lb. bucatini or spaghetti
1¼ cups grated Pecorino Romano
Serves 4
1. Heat oil in a large, high-sided skillet over medium heat. Add guanciale; cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 6–8 minutes. Add pepper; cook, stirring often, until toasted and fragrant, about 2 minutes more. Increase heat to medium-high; add garlic, carrots, and onions and cook, stirring
2 ribs celery, minced
2 lbs. ground beef chuck
½ cup dry red wine
2¾ cups canned tomato purée Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 lbs. fresh tagliatelle or fettuccine Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
Serves 8
1. Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables are somewhat softened, about 8 minutes.
2. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the beef, and cook, stirring constantly, until the meat is broken up and just cooked through, about 7 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until evaporated, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato purée and 1½ cups water and bring to a boil over high heat.
3. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick, about 2 hours. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Bring a 6-qt. pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook, stirring, until al dente, or according to the package directions. Drain the pasta, transfer to a bowl, and toss with about half of the ragù, reserving the rest for another use. Serve warm with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Homemade Tagliatelle
Many Bolognese pasta makers roll their pasta dough by hand to make tagliatelle, but we found that using a hand-cranked pasta roller and cutting the dough with a knife yields excellent results.
A On a clean surface, form 3 cups flour into a mound; create a well in center. Sprinkle 1 tsp. kosher salt over flour. Add 3 eggs, 1 egg yolk, 2 tbsp. water, and 1 tbsp. olive oil to well.
B Using a fork, incorporate eggs and liquid in a circular motion, pulling in small amounts of flour until dough becomes stiff.
C Knead dough, adding a little flour as necessary, until it’s smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Wrap in plastic wrap; let rest for 30 minutes.
D Cut dough into quarters.
E Flatten 1 quarter into a rectangle (cover others with a towel). Pass dough through a hand-cranked pasta roller set at widest setting.
F Fold dough in thirds, creating another rectangle; feed open edge through roller set at widest setting. Fold again; roll twice more using same setting. Decrease setting one notch and roll the pasta through again; repeat, decreasing setting each time until you’ve reached the second-to-last setting, creating a 1/16-inch thick sheet.
G Sprinkle sheet with flour; halve crosswise. Transfer to flour-dusted parchment paper. Repeat with the remaining dough, adding flour-dusted parchment paper between each layer.
H Tightly roll each sheet, from short end to short end; cut cylinder crosswise into 3 / 8 -inch wide strips. Unroll strips and toss with flour; spread on a floured parchment sheet. Let dry for 30 minutes. To serve: Cook tagliatelle in salted boiling water until al dente, about 3–4 minutes. Drain; transfer to a bowl and toss with 2 cups ragù (or more, to taste); see Pasta with Ragù recipe . Serve with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Serves 4
Bucatini with Spicy Tomato Sauce
Bucatini all’Amatriciana
This Roman classic is flavored with guanciale, or cured pork jowl, though pancetta is a fine substitute. Toasting the black pepper in the fat rendered out from the guanciale boosts the flavor of this sauce.
3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
4 oz. thinly sliced guanciale or pancetta, cut into
¾-inch pieces Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small carrot, minced
½ medium onion, minced
½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
1 28-oz. can peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, undrained and puréed Kosher salt, to taste
1 lb. bucatini or spaghetti
1¼ cups grated Pecorino Romano
Serves 4
1. Heat oil in a large, high-sided skillet over medium heat. Add guanciale; cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 6–8 minutes. Add pepper; cook, stirring often, until toasted and fragrant, about 2 minutes more. Increase heat to medium-high; add garlic, carrots, and onions and cook, stirring
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