Read Online Pie and Pastry Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum - Free Book Online
Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum
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in the freezer to chill.
Cut the butter into small (about ¾-inch) cubes. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes.
Place the flours, salt, and optional baking powder in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Add the cream cheese and rub the mixture between your fingers to blend the cream cheese into the flour until it resembles coarse meal. Place the mixture, together with the cold butter, in a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag. Expel any air from the bag and close it. Use a rolling pin to flatten the butter into thin flakes. Place the bag in the freezer for at least 10 minutes or until the butter is very firm.
Transfer the mixture to the chilled bowl, scraping the sides of the bag. Set the bag aside. Sprinkle the mixture with the water and vinegar, tossing lightly with a rubber spatula. Spoon it into the plastic bag. (For a two-crust pie, it is easiest to divide the mixture in half at this point.)
Holding both ends of the bag opening with your fingers, knead the mixture by alternately pressing it, from outside of the bag, with the knuckles and heels of your hands until the mixture holds together in one piece and feels slightly stretchy when pulled. To prevent cracking, it is helpful to fold the dough in thirds like a business letter. If the dough becomes soft and sticky, refrigerate it for 5 to 10 minutes. (This dough is a little more tender than the cream cheese dough, using all white flour, so be sure to do the turns or knead a little extra till you can feel the stretch when you pull it.)
Wrap the dough with plastic wrap, flatten it into a disc (or discs), and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes, preferably overnight. (For a pie shell and lattice, divide it in a ratio of two thirds : one third—use about 9.5 ounces for the shell and the rest for the lattice, flattening the smaller part into a rectangle.)
STORE
Refrigerated, up to 2 days; frozen, up to 3 months.
UNDERSTANDING
The combination of all-purpose flour and whole wheat results in a very similar gluten content to that of pastry flour. Whole wheat flour contains a small amount of gluten-forming protein, which helps hold the crust together. Whole wheat pastry flour has less and is too weak to support this crust by itself.
FLAKY VEGETABLE SHORTENING PIE CRUST
I am of the opinion that the flavor of a butter crust is so superior to that of a vegetable shortening one as to render the shortening crust almost pointless. Yet vegetable shortening has several things to recommend it. It is easier to work with a dough made with vegetable shortening than one with all butter because the dough stays soft even after it has been refrigerated and does not soften excessively during rolling. Also, it always holds its shape during baking, protecting any decorative border. A shortening crust is a little less crisp than a butter crust, about as flaky, but more tender, and therefore gives the illusion of being “lighter.” It browns a little faster than a butter crust.
FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD
Cut the shortening into small (about ¾-inch) cubes. (This is easiest to do if using the shortening sticks and chilling them first.) Wrap them with plastic wrap and freeze them for at least 30 minutes. Place the flour and salt in a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag and freeze for at least 30 minutes.
Place the flour mixture in a food processor with the metal blade and process for a few seconds to combine. Set the bag aside. Add the frozen shortening and pulse until the shortening is in pieces the size of small lima beans. (Toss with a fork to see it better.) Add the ice water and pulse until most of the shortening is the size of large peas, with some a little larger.
For small tartlets, allow the processing to continue just until a ball forms. The additional mixing produces a dough that is slightly less flaky and will not puff out of shape in the tiny molds.
Spoon the mixture into the plastic bag. (For a two-crust pie, it is easiest to divide the mixture in
Cut the butter into small (about ¾-inch) cubes. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes.
Place the flours, salt, and optional baking powder in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Add the cream cheese and rub the mixture between your fingers to blend the cream cheese into the flour until it resembles coarse meal. Place the mixture, together with the cold butter, in a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag. Expel any air from the bag and close it. Use a rolling pin to flatten the butter into thin flakes. Place the bag in the freezer for at least 10 minutes or until the butter is very firm.
Transfer the mixture to the chilled bowl, scraping the sides of the bag. Set the bag aside. Sprinkle the mixture with the water and vinegar, tossing lightly with a rubber spatula. Spoon it into the plastic bag. (For a two-crust pie, it is easiest to divide the mixture in half at this point.)
Holding both ends of the bag opening with your fingers, knead the mixture by alternately pressing it, from outside of the bag, with the knuckles and heels of your hands until the mixture holds together in one piece and feels slightly stretchy when pulled. To prevent cracking, it is helpful to fold the dough in thirds like a business letter. If the dough becomes soft and sticky, refrigerate it for 5 to 10 minutes. (This dough is a little more tender than the cream cheese dough, using all white flour, so be sure to do the turns or knead a little extra till you can feel the stretch when you pull it.)
Wrap the dough with plastic wrap, flatten it into a disc (or discs), and refrigerate for at least 45 minutes, preferably overnight. (For a pie shell and lattice, divide it in a ratio of two thirds : one third—use about 9.5 ounces for the shell and the rest for the lattice, flattening the smaller part into a rectangle.)
STORE
Refrigerated, up to 2 days; frozen, up to 3 months.
UNDERSTANDING
The combination of all-purpose flour and whole wheat results in a very similar gluten content to that of pastry flour. Whole wheat flour contains a small amount of gluten-forming protein, which helps hold the crust together. Whole wheat pastry flour has less and is too weak to support this crust by itself.
FLAKY VEGETABLE SHORTENING PIE CRUST
I am of the opinion that the flavor of a butter crust is so superior to that of a vegetable shortening one as to render the shortening crust almost pointless. Yet vegetable shortening has several things to recommend it. It is easier to work with a dough made with vegetable shortening than one with all butter because the dough stays soft even after it has been refrigerated and does not soften excessively during rolling. Also, it always holds its shape during baking, protecting any decorative border. A shortening crust is a little less crisp than a butter crust, about as flaky, but more tender, and therefore gives the illusion of being “lighter.” It browns a little faster than a butter crust.
FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD
Cut the shortening into small (about ¾-inch) cubes. (This is easiest to do if using the shortening sticks and chilling them first.) Wrap them with plastic wrap and freeze them for at least 30 minutes. Place the flour and salt in a reclosable gallon-size freezer bag and freeze for at least 30 minutes.
Place the flour mixture in a food processor with the metal blade and process for a few seconds to combine. Set the bag aside. Add the frozen shortening and pulse until the shortening is in pieces the size of small lima beans. (Toss with a fork to see it better.) Add the ice water and pulse until most of the shortening is the size of large peas, with some a little larger.
For small tartlets, allow the processing to continue just until a ball forms. The additional mixing produces a dough that is slightly less flaky and will not puff out of shape in the tiny molds.
Spoon the mixture into the plastic bag. (For a two-crust pie, it is easiest to divide the mixture in
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