Paris, My Sweet

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his buttery croissants and pain au chocolat , which duked it out in popularity with the French bakery across the street, Almondine.
    But we had come for the cocoa, so we got in line—for despite the empty streets outside, plenty of tourists, many of them European, had also found their way from Manhattan’s crowded streets to Mr. Chocolate. Bob managed to snag one of only two marble-topped café tables wedged in the tiny retail space, while Mom and I ordered three steamed cocoas and brought them to the table. The paper cups they were served in didn’t do the rich drinks justice. The cocoa was worthy of France’s finest porcelain cups and saucers. It was creamy, thick, and, oui , chocolaty. At the time, we agreed it was some of the best hot chocolate we’d ever tasted. Who knew that just a few years later, the three of us would be sipping incredibly decadent hot chocolate again, thousands of miles away in Paris?

    Warmed by Angelina’s divine chocolat chaud , fatigued from the massive museum visit and days of touring Paris, we sat in contented silence. I replayed Mom and Bob’s banter from throughout the week, which wasn’t exactly as witty as Jacques and Julia’s, but had its own sincerity and charm.
    â€œI didn’t know there were so many things you could do with puff pastry.”
    â€œI didn’t know there were so many things you could do with whipped cream.”
    â€œI don’t think I’ve ever taken a picture of my dessert before.”
    â€œI don’t want this to end.”
    I knew it had been a successful visit. It wasn’t just that Mom and Bob had been atop the Eiffel Tower at night or lit candles at Notre Dame. It wasn’t just being able to finally say they’d visited the Louvre or eaten a real French baguette. It wasn’t even the rich cocoa or moist, crumbly cakes or flaky viennoiserie that made them sigh in disbelief. Well, actually, maybe it was those things—if only a little bit.
    But sitting in that historic tea salon, at once regal and relaxed, I knew they now understood my love for Paris and why I’d had to come back to it. Each sip and every bite we shared on their visit was an introduction to my new life. I was revealing a part of myself that I could never convey in words. It was bittersweet for all of us there at Angelina. They knew I intended to stay in Paris for a while. But while I may have moved thousands of miles away, at that moment, I felt closer to home than ever.
    More Sweet Spots on the Map
    Whack rules in New York. Everyone has to be wild, outrageous, excessive—anything to be different from everyone else. And that includes our hot cocoa. Every February, for example, Maury Rubin hosts the Hot Chocolate Festival at City Bakery with a special flavor featured each day, from spicy fig to bourbon to tropical. I still haven’t gotten through all the flavors but can wholeheartedly vouch for City Bakery’s out-of-this-world classic cocoa, served year-round. Opt for the giant homemade marshmallow floating on top to sweeten things up even more. Another fancy favorite is the white hot chocolate with lemon myrtle and lavender at Vosges Haut-Chocolat in Soho.
    I really do think Angelina’s chocolat chaud is the creamiest and dreamiest in Paris. But I also would never say no to a pitcher at Jacques Genin in the Marais or Les Deux Magots in Saint-Germain, both sinfully thick and delicious ways to get your choco-fix. For something approaching New York’s adventures in fun flavors, head to the second-level tearoom of Jean-Paul Hévin for decadent raspberry-, matcha-, or ginger-flavored cocoa.

After Mom and Bob’s visit, the social front picked up. The girls came and we shared four fabulous days and nights of eating our hearts out, pouring our souls out, and laughing our heads off. We luxuriated in the spring sunshine at the Jardin du Luxenbourg, toured the Seine from a boat at twilight, and sat in

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