popping.
âThe abalones,â she prompted after the proper interval had passed. âWhat about them?â
His knife was working again, ripping through a foreign cluster of herbs, rocking and flashing against the wooden board. âIt was the local Chinese who reaped the rewards first, who created the overseas market. Then, before they knew it, their big-city cousins had come to town: thousands of San Franciscans withbetter fishing methods and bigger boats and more secure connections to the homeland. When the abalones were gone, the visitors from the north ended up rich. The locals, needless to say, did not. They had to start fishing for squid instead.â
He smiled at the squid in the skillet as if they had done him a personal favor, then smothered them with a handful of minced greenery. She hadnât expected it to feel this goodâthis return to business as usualâbut it did. Her fatherâs sudden enthusiasm was sweeping away any former notions of patience, payback, or restraint.
Just like the burned sketchbooks,
she thought with a shiver: the catharses that were always so final until, at a certain point, they werenât.
âAnd what about the squid? Did they disappear, too?â
âNo. The bay is still full of them, but thatâs not the point. The point is that, for centuries now, people have been doing the same damn thing. Breaking the bay, waiting for it to fix itself, and then breaking it again. And Iâm certain thereâs a better way.â
He reached across her to give the skillet a little shake.
âAnd what way is that?â
Instead of answering, he took a tiny jar from his vest pocket, opened it, and dosed its contents into his palm.
âSmell,â he said.
She paused. This was the most conciliatory gesture he had made in months, and something about it worried her. But then she bent over his hand and inhaled. Hot, musky, semisweet. As specific and strange as the unknown herbs.
âWhat is it?â
âChinese five-spice powder. Try to guess all five.â
Guess
, she remembered telling the biologist.
Guess how old.
She closed her eyes and took another sniff.
âOne: cinnamon. Two: cloves . . .â
âStar anise, fennel seed, and Szechuan pepper.â
âI was just about to say that.â
âNo,â he teased. âYou werenât.â
The powder hit the pan, its smells unifying and then exploding.
âQuick,â he said. âThe plates.â
She opened the nearest cabinet and withdrew two pieces of the good china, which had been placed there without her knowledge, as if in deliberate secret.
âCook it for too long,â he said, easing the squid out of the skillet, âand it turns to rubber.â
âI know.â
And then the rebirth of another tradition: dinner on foot. For as long as she could remember, they had eaten like this, as if in readiness for fight or flight, their legs shifting beneath them as they chewed, her fatherâs enjoyment of the mealâs creation vastly exceeding his enjoyment of the meal itself. When they were done, she put down her fork and looked at him. He didnât resemble the biologist, not one bit. But in a moment like this, when the turmoil within him had been temporarily silenced, when something had been successfully planned,executed, and consumed, the similarity was both unsettling and undeniable.
âSo,â she said. âHave I earned it?â
He folded his napkin into quarters and placed it neatly on the countertop.
âEarned what?â
âAn explanation.â
âA lucrative opportunity. Nothing more.â
âFrom what Iâve heard, the sardine game isnât so lucrative these days.â In her mouth, the biologistâs words seemed precious and oddly shaped. âMost of them are already in cans.â
âFor one thing, itâs not a
game
. For another, itâs not the sardines that interest
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