Read Online Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 by Julia Child - Free Book Online Page A
Authors: Julia Child
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stirring in oil by droplets until sauce is thick and heavy. Thin out with drops of vinegar and begin beating in teaspoons of oil with whip. Sauce should be heavy enough to hold its shape in a spoon. Season to taste. (Note that a more detailed recipe on aïoli and on mayonnaise in general is in Volume I, page 92.)
A 2-cup serving bowl
Plastic wrap
A covered jar if needed
Scrape half the sauce into serving bowl, cover airtight, and set aside for dining room. Beat the 4 remaining egg yolks into the rest of the sauce; cover airtight. (If doing in advance, transfer to a smaller container and cover.) This second half is to be combined with the stew just before serving.
2) Cooking and serving cooking the fish:
The cooking broth
The prepared fish
A large perforated skimmer
A serving platter set over a pan of almost simmering water, and a cover
2 to 3 Tb coarsely chopped parsley
About 15 minutes before serving, bring cooking broth to a rolling boil and add the fish, pushing it down intothe broth, which should barely cover it. (Add a little boiling water if necessary.) Boil slowly, uncovered, for 6 to 10 minutes, depending on thickness of fish (2 to 3 minutes only for scallops); it is done when springy rather than squashy to the touch—do not overcook. As soon as fish is done, arrange on platter, moisten with a little of the cooking broth, decorate with parsley, and cover to keep it warm.
combining cooking broth and aïoli:
The egg-yolk enriched aïoli in a 3-quart bowl
A large wire whip, a ladle, and a wooden spoon
A 3-cup serving bowl
Salt and white pepper
A warm soup tureen
Whisking aïoli with wire whip, gradually dribble in several ladlesful of hot cooking broth until 2 to 3 cups have gone in. (Ladle a cup or so of broth also into serving bowl and keep warm.) Pour aïoli mixture back into casserole with rest of cooking stock and set over moderate heat. Stir continually and rather slowly with wooden spoon until broth slowly thickens enough to coat the spoon—4 to 5 minutes—being careful that liquid does not come to simmer and scramble the egg yolks. Carefully correct seasoning; broth will be a beautiful, smooth, richly aromatic yellow-ivory color. Pour it into the tureen and serve immediately.
serving:
12 or more slices of hot French bread, ¾ inch thick
Wide soup plates
The reserved plain broth
The hot fish on its platter, and the tureen
The reserved aïoli mayonnaise
For each serving, place 2 slices of bread in a soup plate and moisten with a spoonful of plain broth. Arrange chunks of fish over the bread and ladle over it the aïoli broth from the tureen. Each guest adds a spoonful of aïoli mayonnaise, and eats the bourride with soup spoon and fork.
----
CHAPTER TWO
Baking: Breads, Brioches, Croissants, and Pastries
YEAST DOUGHS
Les Pâtes Levées
T HE AVERAGE FRENCH HOUSEHOLD does no yeast baking at all except for babas, savarins , and an occasional brioche . It certainly does no bread making, and there is no need to because every neighborhood has its own boulangerie serving freshly baked bread every day of the week but one, usually Monday, when the boulanger takes his day off. Thus you cannot even find a bread pan in a French household supply store, and there are no French recipes for homemade bread. All of the recipes here, therefore, are those used by professionals whose techniques we have worked out for the home baker, using standard ingredients and household equipment.
Whether you are a home or a professional baker, you will find that time is really the key to successful bread making. Just as it takes time for cheese to ripen and wine to age, it takes time for yeast to do its full work in a dough. The function of yeast is not only to push the dough up but, equally important, to develop its flavor and its texture. Yeast feeds and multiplies on the starch in the flour. Flour also contains gluten, and it is the gluten that allows the dough to rise and stay risen in the oven because gluten
A 2-cup serving bowl
Plastic wrap
A covered jar if needed
Scrape half the sauce into serving bowl, cover airtight, and set aside for dining room. Beat the 4 remaining egg yolks into the rest of the sauce; cover airtight. (If doing in advance, transfer to a smaller container and cover.) This second half is to be combined with the stew just before serving.
2) Cooking and serving cooking the fish:
The cooking broth
The prepared fish
A large perforated skimmer
A serving platter set over a pan of almost simmering water, and a cover
2 to 3 Tb coarsely chopped parsley
About 15 minutes before serving, bring cooking broth to a rolling boil and add the fish, pushing it down intothe broth, which should barely cover it. (Add a little boiling water if necessary.) Boil slowly, uncovered, for 6 to 10 minutes, depending on thickness of fish (2 to 3 minutes only for scallops); it is done when springy rather than squashy to the touch—do not overcook. As soon as fish is done, arrange on platter, moisten with a little of the cooking broth, decorate with parsley, and cover to keep it warm.
combining cooking broth and aïoli:
The egg-yolk enriched aïoli in a 3-quart bowl
A large wire whip, a ladle, and a wooden spoon
A 3-cup serving bowl
Salt and white pepper
A warm soup tureen
Whisking aïoli with wire whip, gradually dribble in several ladlesful of hot cooking broth until 2 to 3 cups have gone in. (Ladle a cup or so of broth also into serving bowl and keep warm.) Pour aïoli mixture back into casserole with rest of cooking stock and set over moderate heat. Stir continually and rather slowly with wooden spoon until broth slowly thickens enough to coat the spoon—4 to 5 minutes—being careful that liquid does not come to simmer and scramble the egg yolks. Carefully correct seasoning; broth will be a beautiful, smooth, richly aromatic yellow-ivory color. Pour it into the tureen and serve immediately.
serving:
12 or more slices of hot French bread, ¾ inch thick
Wide soup plates
The reserved plain broth
The hot fish on its platter, and the tureen
The reserved aïoli mayonnaise
For each serving, place 2 slices of bread in a soup plate and moisten with a spoonful of plain broth. Arrange chunks of fish over the bread and ladle over it the aïoli broth from the tureen. Each guest adds a spoonful of aïoli mayonnaise, and eats the bourride with soup spoon and fork.
----
CHAPTER TWO
Baking: Breads, Brioches, Croissants, and Pastries
YEAST DOUGHS
Les Pâtes Levées
T HE AVERAGE FRENCH HOUSEHOLD does no yeast baking at all except for babas, savarins , and an occasional brioche . It certainly does no bread making, and there is no need to because every neighborhood has its own boulangerie serving freshly baked bread every day of the week but one, usually Monday, when the boulanger takes his day off. Thus you cannot even find a bread pan in a French household supply store, and there are no French recipes for homemade bread. All of the recipes here, therefore, are those used by professionals whose techniques we have worked out for the home baker, using standard ingredients and household equipment.
Whether you are a home or a professional baker, you will find that time is really the key to successful bread making. Just as it takes time for cheese to ripen and wine to age, it takes time for yeast to do its full work in a dough. The function of yeast is not only to push the dough up but, equally important, to develop its flavor and its texture. Yeast feeds and multiplies on the starch in the flour. Flour also contains gluten, and it is the gluten that allows the dough to rise and stay risen in the oven because gluten
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