pyjamas hunkered down in the dark hammering and hacksawing chunks of bombshell debris.
As it happens, the soil in the Cu Chi area readily lends itself to the construction of tunnels. Itâs a mixture of clay, sand and rock that, on exposure to air, hardens like cement.
US forces werenât entirely unaware of the presence of the tunnels but they had no clue how extensive they were, and they werenât likely to find out by exploring them. The tunnels were low and narrow, built to accommodate the smaller bodies of Vietnamese, not a GIâs strapping bulk. Then, too, the prospect of shimmying into a black void infested with poisonous spiders, venomous snakes, rats AND armed enemy soldiers, all in stifling jungle heat, canât have held much appeal. Accordingly, troops finding a concealed tunnel entrance usually elected to pump in poison gas or toss in a few grenades, fill in the entrance and move on.
So what was it like for the Viet Cong who lived in and fought out of the Cu Chi tunnels? Not good. Aside from being carpet-bombed almost daily, they suffered from a variety of pestilences. A captured Viet Cong document indicated that at any given time more than half the underground troops were stricken with malaria and that âone hundred percent had intestinal parasites of significance.â Human beings arenât designed to live in tunnels. The air was bad, the diet was pathetic and the denizens had to learn to live in a permanent hunch in pretty much perpetual darkness. Viet Cong who didnât die outright suffered from severe vitamin deficiency that left them with enlarged heads, weak eyes, bad hearts, swollen feet and severe respiratory infections.
Sixteen thousand Viet Cong fought out of the Cu Chi tunnels during what they call âthe American War.â Twelve thousand of them lie buried in graves that carpet the outskirts of the tunnels.
Do the math. Three-quarters of the troops fighting for Ho Chi Minh in the Cu Chi tunnels died there. Clearly the whole tunnel offensive was a devastating defeat for the North Vietnamese forces.
And yet . . .
The official name of the nearest city is Ho Chi Minh City, not Saigon. It was changed in spirit the day a Viet Cong commando squad briefly but humiliatingly took over the US Embassy in Saigon during the Tet Offensive of 1968. Those Viet Cong operated out of the tunnels at Cu Chi.
The war is over and, incredibly, Western tourists are warmly welcomed in Vietnam. We can even tour short sections of the tunnels at Cu Chiâsections that have been purposely enlarged to accommodate our Western bodies. Even at that itâs a cramped and uncomfortable experienceâunimaginable as a way of life.
As one sweaty, wide-eyed Canadian tourist said, emerging into the sunlight from the Cu Chi tunnels, âNo wonder they won.â
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Armed and Out to Lunch
W hat do you do when you realize the guy who lives next to you is nuts?
I donât mean âeccentricâ or âdippy.â I mean stark staring, bring-the-butterfly-nets nuts.
I thought about having him arrested, but I think heâs got more pull with the cops than I have. Besides, heâs pretty bigâand he has a mean streak that stretches from here to Baghdad. Iâm not talking about my personal next-door neighbourâheâs fine (besides Iâve still got his lawnmower). No, Iâm talking about OUR neighbourâthe US of A.
Why do I think Americaâs nuts? Let me count the ways. Letâs start with the cartoon characters the Republican Party offered for presidential consideration last time around. Letâs see . . . there was Newt the crook and Michele the loony; Cain the serial stickman and Rick Santorum, whom even the atrocious Ron Paul called âatrocious.â At the bottom of the barrel they found a corporation called MITT, hooked it up to Lyinâ Ryan and thatâs the ticket they ultimately went with.
But when you see how some other
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