but I think itâs important to keep his version of cooking in our sights. On a good day, there is wonder in transforming humdrum ingredients into a satisfying, good-tasting meal; if kids see the magic, itâs not just a manifestation of elite privilege.
Would that strategy work for adults? Fulkerson says âparents can be as picky as kids,â and she thinks the same principle applies. So, if youâre an adult or a kid over about the age of 10 and youâre guilty of complaining, grab an apron and see whether you canât do better.
I asked Daniel Post Senning, co-author of the 18th edition of Emily Postâs Etiquette (and great-great-grandson of that etiquette icon),about complaining at the table, a practice so brazenly discourteous that mention of its prevalence left him âslack-jawed.â When he recovered his wits, he had several suggestions for changing the family dinner dynamic. First, he seconded Fulkersonâs strategy: âIf youâre not participating in the process, you donât always have standing to offer a critique,â he says. âOffer to participate in a meaningful way: planning and shopping, if not cooking.â
And even then, be careful. âThe compliment sandwichâpraise, critique, praiseâwould be appropriate. Thereâs always something you can thank someone for when theyâve worked on your behalf.â Also, âhave a solution.â Donât care for creamed spinach? Volunteer to try roasting cauliflower.
What you donât do when someoneâprobably someone you loveâhas made a meal for you is gripe about the food at the table. Just donât.
The Little Brute Family stumbles through a grim and joyless life eating sticks and stones until, one day, Baby Brute finds a daisy, and the daisy gives him a good feeling. That evening, at supper, âwhen his bowl was filled with stew he said, âThank you.ââ From that moment, the good feeling catches on. âWhen Papa Brute went out for sticks and stones the next day, he found wild berries, salad greens, and honey, and he brought them home instead. At supper, everyone said âHow delicious!â because it was delicious.â
Okay, The Little Brute Family is a fable, and decreeing that, from this day forth, no one shall complain about dinner wonât magically turn the home-cooking trend around. But, unlike most interventions, it doesnât cost us anything. And if home cooking is something worth encouraging, and I think it is, we all need to take a tip from Baby Brute. When someone cooks a meal for you, whether or not you found your daisy, hereâs an appropriate thing to say: Thank you.
Cookingâs Not for Everyone Cookingâs Not for Everyone
B Y M OLLY W ATSON
From Edible San Francisco
          Bay Area food writer and recipe developer Molly Watson (check out her delightful blog TheDinnerFiles.com ) offers another real-world perspective on Americaâs vanishing kitchen skillsâreminding us what the high-minded foodie elite always seems to forget.
We are bombarded with this truth: Family dinner is a magical and yet endangered institution. What was once commonplaceâlo, quotidian!âfor people who lived in the same house is, because of dual-income households and yoga classes and Lego workshops and screens of all sizes and Hot Pockets, going the way of whalebone corsetry.
Sure, it exists, but more as a fetish object than something you pull out and put on everyday.
We must fight for its survival, we are told. Not only is it an insanely effective way to stay connected as a family, but itâs even better at getting the kids into Harvard than mission trips to Guatemala and it can coax elves to dance with unicorns in our backyards.
And hereâs the latest promise coming directly from the better-food movement: It will de-industrialize our food system. That last bit only happens, though, if
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