Around the Shabbat Table

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Authors: Jayne Cohen
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from the liquid. Puree the defatted liquid, together with about half the reserved onion-garlic mixture and the remaining 1 ⁄ 2 tablespoon vinegar, in a food processor or blender. Transfer the pureed mixture to the cleaned pan. Add the remaining onion-garlic mixture and boil over high heat for about 5 minutes to concentrate the gravy and marry the flavors. Reduce the heat, add the meat, and reheat it slowly in the gravy until piping hot. Taste and adjust seasoning.
    ARRANGE the sliced brisket on a serving platter. Spoon some of the hot sauce all over the meat and pass the rest in a separate sauce boat.

    COOK’S NOTE: If you don’t have a pan large enough, you can cut the brisket in two and sauté it in batches. (The meat will shrink as it cooks, so that you will be able to fit it in one layer later.) Or sear the meat under the broiler: cover the broiler pan with foil to minimize cleanup. Place brisket, fat-side up, under a preheated broiler, and broil for 5 to 6 minutes on each side, or until nicely browned. Move the meat around as needed, so that it sears evenly.

    FLANKEN WITH TART GREENS
    yield: 4 TO 5 SERVINGS
    This dish is commonly translated as “boiled beef,” but it is actually beef long-simmered in water with aromatic vegetables. My grandmother’s method uses a full-bodied beef or chicken broth instead as the cooking medium, along with plenty of earthy vegetables, producing succulent meat as well as a lusty-flavored soup. Though eight cups of broth may seem extravagant, in effect you are borrowing it and returning it deepened by the vibrant flavors of the meat and vegetables, as a husky soup that really sings, ready to be served at another meal. To garnish it, use the leftover flanken to make the Mishmash Kreplach . Or ladle the soup over egg noodles and sprinkle with lots of chopped fresh dill. Offered solo, the broth is wonderfully restorative on frosty days, and it makes a refined opener to a rich meat dinner.
    Flanken is a bony Jewish cut of beef made by cutting short ribs across the bone. It is available in kosher butcher shops and from many nonkosher butchers in areas with large Jewish populations. If unavailable, you can substitute chuck short ribs.
    Horseradish, the traditional accompaniment to flanken, can overpower the almost-sweet meat. I prefer broccoli rabe, whose gentle bitterness plays well against the richness of the beef. But I have both horseradish and mustard available for guests who insist.
    4 pounds lean beef flanken
    8 cups Beef Stock ; chicken broth, preferably homemade , or good-quality, low-sodium purchased
    1 large onion, thickly sliced
    3 large garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
    2 carrots, scraped and quartered
    1 parsnip, peeled and quartered
    1 parsley root, peeled (optional)
    2 celery stalks, including leaves if available, quartered
    1 bay leaf, preferably Turkish
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    FOR THE GREENS
    1 pound broccoli rabe, cleaned, stems trimmed and cut into bite-size pieces, leaves and florets coarsely chopped, or an equal amount of trimmed, roughly chopped kale, mustard or turnip greens
    1 tablespoon chopped garlic
    2 tablespoons olive oil
    1 ⁄ 8 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (optional)
    Salt
    About 3 tablespoons broth from the flanken

    Accompaniments: kosher sour dill pickles, coarse salt, grated horseradish, and sharp mustard (for traditional tastes, if desired)
    PUT the beef and stock in a 6-quart Dutch oven or wide heavy saucepan, partially cover, and bring to a bare simmer: the liquid shivering, occasional bubbles breaking gently and noiselessly on the surface. Don’t allow the liquid to come to a boil; that will make the broth cloudy and the meat tough. Regulate the heat as necessary. Use a skimmer to remove as much foam and scum as possible as they rise to the surface.
    AFTER the flanken has simmered for about 30 minutes, add the onion, garlic, carrots, parsnip, parsley root, if using, celery, and bay leaf. Season to taste

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