Around the Shabbat Table

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Authors: Jayne Cohen
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juices and expand somewhat, so leave a little extra room. Place the finished rolls seam side down as you work.
    PREPARE the sauce: in a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine all the sauce ingredients except the bay leaf and process until smooth.
    PLACE the cabbage rolls seam side down on top of the sautéed vegetables. Pack them together closely, making multiple layers as necessary. Pour the sauce evenly over them, bury the bay leaf deep amidst the rolls, cover the pot tightly and bring to a boil. Transfer to the oven and bake for 2 hours, stirring in the raisins after the first hour. If necessary, bake an additional 30 minutes to 1 hour, uncovered, until the cabbage is very tender.
    SERVE the cabbage rolls with lots of challah or other good bread or mashed potatoes because you’ll want to sop up all of the wonderful sauce. Excellent reheated and even better the second day.

    EASY ONION-BRAISED BRISKET
    yield: ABOUT 8 SERVINGS
    A featured player in countless holiday productions throughout the Diaspora, sautéed onion takes on multiple roles here, providing not only the wonderfully savory flavor but also all the aromatic moisture in which the brisket gently braises, and even the body for the simple, flour-free gravy.
    5 tablespoons mild olive oil
    A first- or second-cut beef brisket (about 5 pounds), trimmed of excess fat, wiped with a damp paper towel, and patted dry
    6 large garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper
    2 pounds onions, thinly sliced (about 8 cups)
    1 ⁄ 4 cup mild vinegar (moderately priced sherry or balsamic are good choices)
    HEAT 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat in a large Dutch oven or heavy flameproof casserole large enough to accommodate the meat in one layer (see Cook’s Note). Add the brisket, and brown it well to caramelize the meat on all sides, about 10 minutes in all. Don’t allow it to develop a hard, dark crust, which would make the meat tough or bitter. Transfer the brisket to a platter, fat-side down.
    SPRINKLE the garlic cloves with enough salt and pepper to season the brisket, then mash the seasoned garlic to a paste. Spread half of the garlic paste over the top (nonfat side) of the brisket, and set the meat aside.
    PREHEAT the oven to 300°F.
    POUR off all the remaining fat in the pan, and add the remaining 2 tablespoons fresh oil. Add about half the onions, salt and pepper them generously, and sauté over medium-high heat, lifting and tossing them occasionally, until they have greatly reduced in volume and turned light golden. Stir in the remaining onions. After all the onions have softened, stir less frequently so they can build up the lovely dark fond that helps them brown more quickly. When all the onions are burnished a rich gold, add 3 1 ⁄ 2 tablespoons vinegar. Increase the heat to high, and cook, scraping up all the caramelized brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, for 3 to 4 minutes, until all the liquid is evaporated.
    PLACE the brisket on the bed of onions, fat side up. Spread the remaining garlic paste over the top (fat side) of the brisket.
    SPOON about half of the onions all over the top and sides of the brisket, so that the meat is sandwiched between layers of onion. Cover tightly first with foil, then with the lid.
    BRAISE the brisket in the oven, basting with the pan juices and turning the meat every 30 minutes or so (be sure to recover the pan tightly), until the meat is fork tender, 3 1 ⁄ 2 to 4 hours. Let the meat rest in the pan sauce for at least 1 hour, but preferably overnight, covered, in the refrigerator.
    WHEN you are ready to serve the brisket, scrape off any congealed fat from the surface, if you have refrigerated the dish. Transfer the cold meat to a cutting board, and slice the meat thinly across the grain at a slight diagonal.
    PREPARE the gravy: strain the braising mixture, reserving the onion-garlic mixture. Skim and discard as much fat as possible

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