few blocks from the hotel. This was the Rwanda she remembered.
Shanty housing lined both sides of the lane, many shacks with broken windows, and few in good repair. Mottled doors infested with termites stood as testaments to the residentâs position in Rwandan society. Most in this area were in poor condition, with peeling paint and rusted hardware. An occasional one boasted a new coat of paint, a sign that the owner was doing just fine. She continued along the road for half a mile, then cut left into a darkened alley. She slowed her progress as she approached the end of the street.
Twenty feet from the dead end was a door, similar to almost every other door she had run past in the last ten minutes. She stopped and knocked. Inside, there were scuffling noises as the residents roused themselves. A moment later, the door opened. A short man, just over five feet, with a pug nose and a puzzled expression, looked out. Suddenly he brightened.
âDoctor Sam,â he said, grinning widely, his white teeth shining in the low light of dawn. âDoctor Sam, youâve come back.â He waved his arm for her to enter his house.
âHello, Hal,â she said, grasping the manâs hand and holding it affectionately. âYou look great.â She glanced about the room, where five other people now stood looking at her. âMauri.â She dropped Halâs hand and gave his wife a hug. The woman smiled and nodded. English was not her native tongue, nor had she ever learned it.
âDoctor Sam, what brings you to Kigali?â Hal asked, motioning for her to sit at the lone piece of furniture in the tiny house. She sat at the table and watched as Mauri prepared the morning tea.
âI may need your services, Hal,â she said. âYou know the Virunga Mountains, near Gisenyi.â
âI have led many expeditions into the wilds in search of the mountain gorillas. I know the area very well.â
âI need you to know the Ruwenzori Mountains as well. Please tell me youâve been there.â
âIâve been there, Doctor Sam, but not for a long time. The Democratic Republic of Congo does not appreciate Rwandans since our government sided with the rebel forces that are trying to overthrow the Congolese government. The border is shut down. We canât get across anymore.â
âLeave that to me,â she said. âThe important thing is that you know the area around Butembo.â
âOh yes. Thatâs where the upland gorillas live. Iâve been there many times. I know the area very well.â He looked at her suspiciously. âYouâre not an anthropologist. Youâre a geologist. Why are you interested in gorillas?â
âI have no interest in the gorillas unless some government type asks. Iâm looking for a rock formation.â
Hal winked at her. âI understand.â
âThen Iâd like to hire you, Hal. Iâll pay very well, but it will be dangerous. You may not make it back alive.â
âLiving in Rwanda is dangerous. Some people donât come home from a trip to the corner store. Perhaps, since it is so dangerous, we could arrange for payment in advance. For my widow.â
Samantha laughed. The little man was exactly the same as she remembered from four years ago. She dug into her pockets and pulled out five hundred American dollars. She handed it to Hal. âAnother one thousand if you make it back. Deal?â
âDeal, Doc,â he said. This time his smile lit up the entire room. The sum represented almost four yearâs wages for an average Rwandan.
Sam spent the next half hour sipping tea with Hal, his wife, and their four children. After arranging for Hal to meet her at the hotel bar within the hour, she excused herself and headed back to the hotel. The sun was up and the streets had changed. Gone were the closed doors and empty laneways. Instead, windows and doors were open, and children hung from them,
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