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Book: 1,000 Foods To Eat Before You Die: A Food Lover's Life List by Mimi Sheraton
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Authors: Mimi Sheraton
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dessert. Due to its instant, perverse appeal, the treat spread throughout the U.K., then into both Canada and Australia.
Where:
In Stonehaven, Scotland
, The Carron Fish Bar, tel 44/15-6976-5377, carronfishbar.webecomservices.co.uk .;
in New York
, A Salt & Battery, tel 212-691-2713, asaltandbattery.com ;
in Jamaica Plain, MA
, The Haven, tel 617-524-2836, thehavenjp.com .
in Santa Barbara, CA
, Mac’s Fish & Chip Shop, tel 805-897-1160, macssb.com . Mail order: Mars bars can be ordered at amazon.com. Further information and recipes:
Nigella Bites
by Nigella Lawson (2002); theguardian.com (search deep fried mars bars are a fine scottish tradition).
FOR CHRISTMAS, FOR WEDDINGS, AND FOR NO REASON AT ALL
----
Dundee Cake
Scottish
Many cooks make Dundee cake days, weeks, or even months in advance, so that the flavors will mellow.
According to legend, Dundee cake was invented on behalf of Mary, Queen of Scots, a ruler who did
not
like cherries in her fruitcake. A moist and aromatic accompaniment to tea, coffee, or a glass of Madeira or Irish whiskey, the tawny cake is jeweled with candied citrus peel, currants, raisins, and sultanas—hold the cherries—its top typically decorated with concentric rings of blanched or glazed almonds.
The butter-rich cake, a classic from the city of Dundee, was first commercially produced in the nineteenth century by the Keiller’s marmalade company. Today, it is especially popularat Christmas. Although not traditionally made with alcohol, Dundee cake improves with a bit of spiking: Lightly moisten the uncut cake with whiskey, rum, or brandy, then wrap in cloth or wax paper for a day or two before cutting. For weddings, it is often baked in layers, each of which is covered with rolled marzipan, and the cake as a whole is enveloped in royal icing.
Where:
In London
, Fortnum & Mason, tel 44/20-7734-8040, fortnumandmason.com . Further information and recipes:
The Scots Kitchen
by F. Marian McNeill and Catherine Brown (2010);
A World of Cake
by Krystina Castella (2010); ifood.tv (search christmas dundee cake).
THE
UR-
MARMALADE
----
THE SCOTTISH FISHERMAN’S SPECIAL
----
“GREAT CHIEFTAIN O’ THE PUDDIN’ RACE”
—ROBERT BURNS
----
IT’S NOT THE BEES, IT’S THE HEATHER
----
Heather Honey
Scottish
You sense the heather first in the color of the honey—a mauve cast overlaying a deep sunset gold. Then there is the warm, dusty aroma, like a lush, swaying field of full-bloom heather on a summer afternoon. Finally there is the flavor: a flowery sweetness with a slight brassy tingle, good enough to eat by the spoonful, though more likely to be spread on toast, drizzled over ice cream and summer fruits and berries, or stirred into yogurt, tea, or lemonade.
Writing in 1933, Le Vicomte de Mauduit explained in his book
The Vicomte in the Kitchen
that Scottish honey is the world’s best not because the bees do their job better, but because of “the excellence of the clover and the heather which are fuller in nectar.” Whatever the reason, heather honey, according to F. Marian McNeill in her definitive cookbook,
The Scots Kitchen
, should appear on every tradition-respecting Scottish breakfast table, along with orange marmalade.
Honey should be stored in a tightly covered jar or crock in a cool, dry place. An old Greek rule: “Honey keeps where salt stays dry.” If it should solidify and become sugary, place the container in hot water until the honey liquefies.
Mail order: Scottish Gourmet USA, tel 877-814-3663, scottishgourmetusa.com ; amazon.com (search mellis heather honey). Further information and recipes:
The Scots Kitchen
by F. Marian McNeill and Catherine Brown (2010); honeytraveler.com (click Single Flower Honey, then Heather Honey).
A NEW TREAT FROM SCOTTISH WATERS
----
Scottish Langoustines
Scottish
Loch Fyne boasts world-famous langoustines.
Dublin calls them prawns. Italy, scampi. When caught off the icy waters of Scotland’s west coast—where, as national
Where:
In Stonehaven, Scotland
, The Carron Fish Bar, tel 44/15-6976-5377, carronfishbar.webecomservices.co.uk .;
in New York
, A Salt & Battery, tel 212-691-2713, asaltandbattery.com ;
in Jamaica Plain, MA
, The Haven, tel 617-524-2836, thehavenjp.com .
in Santa Barbara, CA
, Mac’s Fish & Chip Shop, tel 805-897-1160, macssb.com . Mail order: Mars bars can be ordered at amazon.com. Further information and recipes:
Nigella Bites
by Nigella Lawson (2002); theguardian.com (search deep fried mars bars are a fine scottish tradition).
FOR CHRISTMAS, FOR WEDDINGS, AND FOR NO REASON AT ALL
----
Dundee Cake
Scottish
Many cooks make Dundee cake days, weeks, or even months in advance, so that the flavors will mellow.
According to legend, Dundee cake was invented on behalf of Mary, Queen of Scots, a ruler who did
not
like cherries in her fruitcake. A moist and aromatic accompaniment to tea, coffee, or a glass of Madeira or Irish whiskey, the tawny cake is jeweled with candied citrus peel, currants, raisins, and sultanas—hold the cherries—its top typically decorated with concentric rings of blanched or glazed almonds.
The butter-rich cake, a classic from the city of Dundee, was first commercially produced in the nineteenth century by the Keiller’s marmalade company. Today, it is especially popularat Christmas. Although not traditionally made with alcohol, Dundee cake improves with a bit of spiking: Lightly moisten the uncut cake with whiskey, rum, or brandy, then wrap in cloth or wax paper for a day or two before cutting. For weddings, it is often baked in layers, each of which is covered with rolled marzipan, and the cake as a whole is enveloped in royal icing.
Where:
In London
, Fortnum & Mason, tel 44/20-7734-8040, fortnumandmason.com . Further information and recipes:
The Scots Kitchen
by F. Marian McNeill and Catherine Brown (2010);
A World of Cake
by Krystina Castella (2010); ifood.tv (search christmas dundee cake).
THE
UR-
MARMALADE
----
THE SCOTTISH FISHERMAN’S SPECIAL
----
“GREAT CHIEFTAIN O’ THE PUDDIN’ RACE”
—ROBERT BURNS
----
IT’S NOT THE BEES, IT’S THE HEATHER
----
Heather Honey
Scottish
You sense the heather first in the color of the honey—a mauve cast overlaying a deep sunset gold. Then there is the warm, dusty aroma, like a lush, swaying field of full-bloom heather on a summer afternoon. Finally there is the flavor: a flowery sweetness with a slight brassy tingle, good enough to eat by the spoonful, though more likely to be spread on toast, drizzled over ice cream and summer fruits and berries, or stirred into yogurt, tea, or lemonade.
Writing in 1933, Le Vicomte de Mauduit explained in his book
The Vicomte in the Kitchen
that Scottish honey is the world’s best not because the bees do their job better, but because of “the excellence of the clover and the heather which are fuller in nectar.” Whatever the reason, heather honey, according to F. Marian McNeill in her definitive cookbook,
The Scots Kitchen
, should appear on every tradition-respecting Scottish breakfast table, along with orange marmalade.
Honey should be stored in a tightly covered jar or crock in a cool, dry place. An old Greek rule: “Honey keeps where salt stays dry.” If it should solidify and become sugary, place the container in hot water until the honey liquefies.
Mail order: Scottish Gourmet USA, tel 877-814-3663, scottishgourmetusa.com ; amazon.com (search mellis heather honey). Further information and recipes:
The Scots Kitchen
by F. Marian McNeill and Catherine Brown (2010); honeytraveler.com (click Single Flower Honey, then Heather Honey).
A NEW TREAT FROM SCOTTISH WATERS
----
Scottish Langoustines
Scottish
Loch Fyne boasts world-famous langoustines.
Dublin calls them prawns. Italy, scampi. When caught off the icy waters of Scotland’s west coast—where, as national
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