BLM land near the ruin and the abandoned Indian school. Scout, whose family had owned and ranched the land there for five generations, turned out to be a font of wisdom about the locale. Over coffee and some delicious homemade cookies, he told me all about the historic land disputes in that area between the Spanish and the Indians, and later the Anglosâincluding his ancestors.
âThat ruin out there looks just like a castle from a ways off,â he said. âYou can see it from miles around, perched up high on that rim like that.â
âThatâs where the cougar had her den,â I said. âThere must not be any human traffic in that area, or she wouldnât have put the cubs there.â
âI donât think anyone goes out there,â Scout said. âItâs landlocked on three sides. And if someone had to come in from the west, thatâd be pretty tough. Itâs a long piece to the nearest road out that way. It would be days of harsh badlands hiking.â
Lorena, who had been in the middle of baking when I arrived, returned from the kitchen with another plate of cookies fresh from the oven. âI think Iâm probably the only person who goes out to that old school,â she said. âI take food and flowers to the graves of the children in the cemetery behind the school every year on the Day of the Dead. But Iâve never seen anyone else coming or going out that way, or any signs that anyone ever has.â She picked up the coffee carafe to pour me another cup and found it empty. âJust a minute,â she said. âIâve got a fresh pot brewing.â She headed back to the kitchen.
Scout picked up one of the warm cookies. âWell, come to think of it, someone goes out there every once in a while. I think itâs the Indians. Did you know thereâs a stone staircase carved into the cliff wall right there near the ruin?â
âYou mean steps?â I said. âOr hand- and footholds?â
âOh, itâs real crude, just the pecked-out places to put hands and feet, like you said. Itâs weathered enough, I donât think many people know what it is.â
âDoes it go all the way down into the canyon?â
âSure does. I think the Indians from long ago must have carved that staircase into the rock so they could go down to get their water from the river. It has to be. I donât know how else theyâd get water up there if they didnât.â
âYou said youâd seen signs of people out there?â
He got up and went to a small secretary and took out a piece of paper and a pen. âLet me draw you a map.â He started sketching as he spoke. âIf you go right straight out to the west from the ruin, there is a place where some big rocks sit right on the edge. Most people wouldnât think much about it but the rocks are blocking a little pathway, and you canât see it very easily. But if you can slip around those bouldersâthereâs a pretty steep grade to itâbut thereâs a narrow little path there that lets you down just twelve feet or so to a shelf just below the brow of the canyon rim. Itâs not a wide shelf, maybe six feet at best, and itâs under a lip, so you canât see it from up on top. But thatâs where the stone staircase leads down from. And thereâs two small shrines thereâjust little cairns of rock, but Iâve seen them decorated with offerings from time to time.â
âWhat kind of offerings?â
âOh, you know, the usual things.â
âLike feathers? Prayer bundles?â
âYeah, stuff like that.â
Lorena came back with the coffee. âDo you have a big dog out in your car?â
I stood and looked out the window. Mountain was standing up in the back of the Jeep, looking out one side and then the other. âHeâs a wolf,â I said. âHeâs been in my Jeep most of the morning. Would you
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