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often to get rid of the excess dead wood, open the pine cone seeds and let the ecosystem experience a rebirth. The trail we were on led straight through a vast area of trees that now only resemble charred matchsticks poking out of the ground. The area we went though was severely burned and seemed to encompass everything as far as we could see, yet I knew I was only seeing a small fraction of the overall damage. Having the dead birch trees all around us was very surreal and spooky, so we stopped for a minute to smoke a bowl. I noticed then that the floor of the forest was a canvas of new plush green grass and flowers. The contrasts were so interesting that I took a lot of pictures here, including one with John B. and I pretending to eat a HUGE mushroom we found growing out of a burnt stump near where we were resting.
    After the trail brought us out of the burnt trees we hiked through an endless area of old growth which seemed all the more beautiful because of the devastation we left behind. I don’t think I can describe to someone who has never seen anything like this, how overwhelming it all is. I got the impression we could walk for years and never find anybody else. It gave me a twinge of a notion about how desperate or hardcore the early pioneers and explorers must have been to try and conquer a whole continent of this land. At one point we were walking by a pond and there was a huge moose standing there nonchalantly, just watching us hike by. It was straight out of National fucking Geographic. In my mind when I think moose I think Bullwinkle or a large cow creature, but this was a giant beast so large it had limbs from trees taking up residence and growing moss in its antlers. Awesome.
    After hiking around all day we finally found our site in a valley and set up camp. We drank our water out of a stream nearby then cooked and hungrily devoured some vegetarian chili—pretty good actually—and smoked the biggest fucking hydro hooter I’ve ever smoked. Between that, the hike and the pint of cheap whiskey I brought along, we slept like the dead. That moose could have walked into our camp dancing and singing and I wouldn’t have noticed.
    The next day I got up early, drank deeply from the mountain runoff, breathed the fresh clean air, and just like the Pope I took a shit in the woods. It had been a few days thanks to the road food, time constraints and lack of facilities so it felt good to get the rocks out of my belly, be back in touch with my primitive side, get back to nature and all that business. John S. brought this cool soap, Dr. Bron-ner’s 13 in 1, you can use it for soap or toothpaste or laundry detergent, among other things, and it’s all natural so it was ok to use in the (really) cold water to bathe some of the smoke and travel dirt from our bodies.
    Eventually we headed back down the trail leading to civilization after we cleaned up all the trash and mess we created. Real campers pack out what they pack in, it would just be a desecration to leave trash or alter the campsite in any way. I was really sore from yesterdays trek and I thought Mike the Viking was going to pass out he was breathing so hard. We really did hike a long ways out in the wilderness. I felt like a conquering hero returning home when we finally were out of the woods and back at the van, all haggard and beat up from some battle. I don’t know, I suppose it’s the way I feel after a long day of manual labor, like I’ve accomplished something. Not necessarily something significant to anyone else in the world, but something.
    We were all smellier and gamier than ever, I needed a breath mint for my armpit, if you know what I mean. On the way out of the park there was a back up on the road thanks to a line of cars that had stopped to take pictures of some wildlife, another roadside attraction but this time it just made me smile. I imagined a lonely animal with an insecure ego stepping out of the woods at a certain time everyday and letting