grave. I bend and place a pebble on the heap to show that I was there.
BORDERLAND
Susan could spot an Israeli anywhere. Among the tourists in the Thamel Backpackerâs Caféâthe familiar crowd of Germans and Australians, rangy kids and rugged types who looked ready to head up Everest at a sprintâhe stood out right away: the ropy muscles, the jiggling knee, the ashtray full of cigarettes smoked down to the filter or stubbed out half-done. He had broad sideburns, an Adamâs apple as sharp as a stone. He was wearing a Nirvana T-shirt and baggy Bedouin pants. He was writing in a notebook. Not left to right.
Two tables over, he looked up. His left eye twitched, then widenedâa tic, not a wink. She could walk over and say Shalom, but then sheâd be stuck explaining that she didnât really speak Hebrew after all. She could ask him for a cigarette, but she didnât smoke. She could say, My parents are Israeli, too.
From here in the center of town, you couldnât see the mountains,just the white disk of the sun burning through the morning haze. There was a musky scent of incense and donkey dung, a chaos of passing motorbikes and rickshaws, bicycles and beat-up cars, bells and horns and shouts. Across the road, a little girl peeked around the doorway of a child-sized shrine. A dog lay panting in the shade of a stand stacked with bins of mangoes, persimmons, apples, packages of crackers, chocolate bars, wooden flutes, garlands of orange marigolds, bright pink sweets. An old woman squatted by the shop, spat on the dusty ground.
Susan touched the face of her grandmotherâs watch and counted back. It was nine hours and forty-five minutes earlier back homeâ still the day before: October 19, 1998. The extra fifteen minutes off New Delhi time were Nepalâs little hat-tip of independence from its big neighbors to the north and southâan interval intended, Susan supposed, solely to annoy, or to make you stop and think. She fingered the watchâs gold bracelet, its delicate safety chain. She should have left it at home.
In Gaza, the Arabs lined up at dawn. They waited at the checkpoint in taxis, crammed four across the back, in cars and trucks. The heat swirled in a yellow haze. Everywhere, there was sand. The soldiersâDubi, Ofer, Sergei, Assaf, and the rest of the unitâstood by the concrete barriers and sandbags and razor wire and checked identity cards and waved a metal detector wand. The Arabs were laborers, field hands, merchants, factory workers, students, fishermen. They were on their way to Khan Yunis or Gaza City or across the border to Israel. They carried their belongings in plastic sacks. The women wore loose dresses, scarves wrapped around their heads. They smelled of sweat and cigarettes; their speech tumbledfrom their throatsâglottal ayins, rolling
r
s. The sea was less than half a mile away. At night, you could hear it breathe.
Go take a hike, Susanâs brothers used to say. After a while, her mother started saying it, too, although coming from her, like many English idioms, it never sounded right. She had a way of making everything seem literal. Go take a hike, sheâd say, as if she really expected you to jump up, grab your rucksack and alpenstock and march down eight flights of stairs, out into Van Cortlandt Park and across the Bronx.
Susanâs grandparents had been the hikers, the lovers of Alpine forests, wildflower glades. Her own parents preferred the beach. What Susan remembered, though, about their summers in Haifa or at the Jersey shore, was that the beach was the place her parents fought. They fought at night, after Susan and her brothers were in bed. They argued in Hebrew, an escalation of harsh whispers breaking through to shouts. Then the screen door would rasp and slam, and Susan would lie awake, anxiety fluttering in her chest, waiting for whoever had gone out to return, but all she ever heard, before she fell asleep, was the
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