see, Mrs. LeBaron, what we have been proposing is some sort of advertising campaign that would begin to add some respectability, some dignity, to the popular image that the Baronet label now has, in preparationââ
âIn preparation for what?â
âIn preparation for the possibility of introducing a new line of higher-priced wines. Of château quality. With new packaging, with a new labelâretaining the Baronet signature, of course. âChâteau Baronet,â in fact, is one of the labels weâve been tossing about.â
âWhoâs âweâ? Is this some new idea of Joannaâs?â
âNo, actually it was mine,â Eric says.
âOnly a suggestion, of course,â Mike Geraghty says, âin an effort to capture a share, at least, of this upscale market.â
âBelatedly,â Eric adds.
âWhat do you think of the name Château Baronet, Mrs. LeBaron?â Mike Geraghty says. âWe rather like it.â
Sari makes a face. â Château Baronet,â she says. âSounds kind of pansy to me. Well, Iâll tell you what I think. I think this is all a terrible idea. I think itâs worse than terrible. I think itâs a lousy idea, I think it stinks.â
Now the sighs are audible.
âLet me tell you something about wine,â she continues, folding her hands across her desk and adopting the attitude of an all-wise mother superior in a convent addressing a group of unschooled novices. âWine is crushed from grapes, and grapes grow on vines, and vines grow in soil, in earth. In the earth, they depend on rain and on sunâon natureâon sunny days and cool, dry nights. In some of our northern vineyards, like Napa, we let wild mustard grow between the vines in spring. Why wild mustard? No one knows exactly, but wild mustard seems to nourish grapevines in certain areas. Up in the foothills, weeds like clover and vetch seem to work betterâno one knows why, but they do. Nature again. Later, closer to harvest time, these weeds are all plowed under, and this also seems to help the vines. Provides soil texture. You see, thatâs what I think all you boys sometimes seem to forgetâyou, in your Madison Avenue offices, Joanna in her duplex on Fifth Avenue, even Eric here in his office in the city. Youâve forgotten the wild mustard, and the clover, and the purple vetch. How many of you have ever watched the bees, the way a hive of bees will attack a vineyard? A single bee can suck a grape until itâs as dry and empty and wrinkled as a dead balloon. Iâve watched this, watched with tears in my eyes, and watched as those bees fell, one by one to the ground, drunk from their drinking on our vines.
âAnd the larks! âHark! hark! the lark at heavenâs gate sings,â you think, but larks can be some of our worst predators. Those pretty songbirds can be some of our most voracious scavengersâinsatiable!âand a summer of larks for us is a summer of disaster. As a girl, I used to watch the Chinese field hands chanting, shouting, flapping their arms, beating gongs, trying to frighten off a flock of larks from the vines. Did no good at all! Forces of nature, you see.â She pauses for effect. âThatâs what I think youâve all forgotten, sitting there in your ivory towers. Weâre not Park Avenue aristocrats. Hell, weâre farmers . We work the land. We study the sky and sniff the air for signs of rain. We battle nature every day. Weâre real people, and weâre ordinary people, and those are the people who drink our wine, and thatâs how weâve made our reputation.â And she brings down her fist, hard, on the top of the walnut partnersâ desk. âAnd thatâs how we got rich.â
After a moment, Eric says dryly, âWell, thanks for the lecture, Mother.â
âThat wasnât a lecture,â Sari says. âThat was a sermon!â
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