Read Online The Jane Austen Handbook by Margaret C. Sullivan - Free Book Online Page A
Authors: Margaret C. Sullivan
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an old dress a fresh new look. If you are married or do not wish to fuss with your hair, wear a cap, but be aware that it telegraphs that you are unavailable for marriage.
Fig. A
• Evening dress
( Fig. B )
. For dinner and afterwards, change into something truly elegant and perhaps even a little daring. Evening is the time for your flimsiest muslins, prettiest trimmings, and whatever family jewelry you can wheedle out of your mother. Low-cut bodices are perfectly acceptable, and a pretty headdress or some beads or flowers woven into your hair will add just the right touch. Younger ladies should stick with muslin gowns, while married or olderladies can wear gowns made of light silk. And remember—a woman can never look too fine when she is all in white.
Fig. B
• Undergarments
( Fig. C )
. Wearing the correct undergarments is important to give your gowns the proper fit and shape.
• First layer—the shift ( Fig. C-1 )
. Next to your skin, wear a shift, a basic sack dress with a drawstring neckline and that falls to just above the knee. In addition to providing warmth and modesty, shifts keep clothing cleaner by keeping finer fabrics off the skin.
• Second layer—stays ( Fig. C-2 )
. On top of the shift, wearyour stays, or corset, to give support to the bust and smooth the torso. Your maid will tie your laces in the back. They should be firmly tied but not so tight that you cannot breathe. Insert the busk, a long, thin strip of bone, wood, or ivory, in the opening that runs along the breastbone to improve your posture.
• Third layer—petticoat
. A “waist petticoat” (like a long half-slip), made of muslin or wool, might be worn under a sturdier gown for warmth or modesty
( Fig C-3 )
. A petticoat can look like a gown by itself, and is worn as part of an outfit—for instance, a sleeveless gown in a complementary color worn under a transparently gauzy overdress or an open-front robe can be referred to as a petticoat. Such petticoats can be made of muslin or even silk, just like a regular gown.
Fig. C
WOMEN’S UNDERWEAR
Ladies generally did not wear drawers in Jane Austen’s day. After all, what would a well-bred lady be doing that required more coverage for her private parts than a close-fitting floor-length gown provided? Drawers did not come into wide use until crinolines became fashionable in the 1850s, when a gust of wind easily could blow a lady’s skirt up over her head. Some of the very fast and fashionable set did wear various kinds of drawers in the Regency, but they were considered a bit risqué.
That means we may indeed assume, with a high degree of probability, that Jane Austen went commando.
• Outerwear
( Fig. D )
. Outerwear will not only keep you warm, but it is also as much of a style statement as your gowns.
• Pelisse
. A long coat that can completely cover a gown, be cut away in front, or only reach to the knees.
• Spencer ( Fig. D-1 )
. A coat covering the sleeves and bodice of a high-waisted gown.
• Cloak
. Hooded cloaks are usually worn over a skimpy ball gown for warmth, but woolen cloaks are also worn for daytime.
Fig. D
• Accessories . Elegant accessories provide the perfect finishing touch to any outfit.
• Gloves
. Wear gloves outside at all times for warmth and protection, even in summer; you do not want your hands tanned or freckled as though you work in the fields. Elbow-length white kid gloves should be worn for formal parties. When supper is served, unbutton them at the wrist, slip out your hands, and tuck the gloves back intoyour wrist so that you do not drag them through the negus. Always wear gloves for dancing, as will your partner; after all, one would not wish to dance with some sweaty-pawed creature.
• Shawl
. The cold winter weather makes a shawl a necessary accoutrement at all times when you are not sitting directly in front of a fire. Shawls made of cashmere wool from India, woven in intricate and colorful designs,
Fig. A
• Evening dress
( Fig. B )
. For dinner and afterwards, change into something truly elegant and perhaps even a little daring. Evening is the time for your flimsiest muslins, prettiest trimmings, and whatever family jewelry you can wheedle out of your mother. Low-cut bodices are perfectly acceptable, and a pretty headdress or some beads or flowers woven into your hair will add just the right touch. Younger ladies should stick with muslin gowns, while married or olderladies can wear gowns made of light silk. And remember—a woman can never look too fine when she is all in white.
Fig. B
• Undergarments
( Fig. C )
. Wearing the correct undergarments is important to give your gowns the proper fit and shape.
• First layer—the shift ( Fig. C-1 )
. Next to your skin, wear a shift, a basic sack dress with a drawstring neckline and that falls to just above the knee. In addition to providing warmth and modesty, shifts keep clothing cleaner by keeping finer fabrics off the skin.
• Second layer—stays ( Fig. C-2 )
. On top of the shift, wearyour stays, or corset, to give support to the bust and smooth the torso. Your maid will tie your laces in the back. They should be firmly tied but not so tight that you cannot breathe. Insert the busk, a long, thin strip of bone, wood, or ivory, in the opening that runs along the breastbone to improve your posture.
• Third layer—petticoat
. A “waist petticoat” (like a long half-slip), made of muslin or wool, might be worn under a sturdier gown for warmth or modesty
( Fig C-3 )
. A petticoat can look like a gown by itself, and is worn as part of an outfit—for instance, a sleeveless gown in a complementary color worn under a transparently gauzy overdress or an open-front robe can be referred to as a petticoat. Such petticoats can be made of muslin or even silk, just like a regular gown.
Fig. C
WOMEN’S UNDERWEAR
Ladies generally did not wear drawers in Jane Austen’s day. After all, what would a well-bred lady be doing that required more coverage for her private parts than a close-fitting floor-length gown provided? Drawers did not come into wide use until crinolines became fashionable in the 1850s, when a gust of wind easily could blow a lady’s skirt up over her head. Some of the very fast and fashionable set did wear various kinds of drawers in the Regency, but they were considered a bit risqué.
That means we may indeed assume, with a high degree of probability, that Jane Austen went commando.
• Outerwear
( Fig. D )
. Outerwear will not only keep you warm, but it is also as much of a style statement as your gowns.
• Pelisse
. A long coat that can completely cover a gown, be cut away in front, or only reach to the knees.
• Spencer ( Fig. D-1 )
. A coat covering the sleeves and bodice of a high-waisted gown.
• Cloak
. Hooded cloaks are usually worn over a skimpy ball gown for warmth, but woolen cloaks are also worn for daytime.
Fig. D
• Accessories . Elegant accessories provide the perfect finishing touch to any outfit.
• Gloves
. Wear gloves outside at all times for warmth and protection, even in summer; you do not want your hands tanned or freckled as though you work in the fields. Elbow-length white kid gloves should be worn for formal parties. When supper is served, unbutton them at the wrist, slip out your hands, and tuck the gloves back intoyour wrist so that you do not drag them through the negus. Always wear gloves for dancing, as will your partner; after all, one would not wish to dance with some sweaty-pawed creature.
• Shawl
. The cold winter weather makes a shawl a necessary accoutrement at all times when you are not sitting directly in front of a fire. Shawls made of cashmere wool from India, woven in intricate and colorful designs,
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