The Art and Craft of Coffee

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Authors: Kevin Sinnott
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roasting.
• Risk of flat taste. Just as stovetop roasters offer the opportunity to develop complexity, they also increase the risk of creating coffee that tastes flat. This happens after roasting beans at too low of a temperature for too long.
Materials
Thick metal enclosed coffee roasting pan with crank handle on top
Stovetop
Green coffee beans
Digital scale
Kitchen timer or clock
Roasting notebook
Heat-safe gloves
2 steel colanders
Mason jar (or other glass container)
Fire extinguisher, in case of roasting fire
    < A stovetop roaster takes advantage of something you likely already have: a stove.

Expert Notes on Stovetop Roasting
Here are a few tips for stovetop roasting:
• Remove the chaff from the beans during cooling. Unfortunately, chaff can get messy. Consider cooling the beans outdoors or over a sink to contain the mess. (Chaff makes excellent compost.)
• Pull your roast into cooling just before the beans reach their desired doneness. This takes practice, but it’s worth it to learn because coffee beans will continue to roast for at least a minute into the cooling stage.
• Break apart a roasted bean. If it is lighter inside than outside, try reducing roasting heat. If the interior is darker than the exterior, increase roasting heat.
• Roast beans for longer than ten minutes and less than twenty minutes to maximize your beans’ potential flavor development and complexity and to prevent them from going flat.
    Instructions
1. Place the cool roasting pan on the stovetop, centering it over the burner.
2. Weigh the green coffee beans using your digital scale based on the amount the manufacturer predetermined that the roaster can handle.
3. Open the hinged top hatch on the pan’s top and pour the beans into the roaster (a) . Immediately turn the crank to evenly distribute the beans (b) .
4. Turn the burner to medium heat. Begin timer as you manually turn the crank slowly and constantly.
5. After 5 to 10 minutes, the beans will begin popping, indicating the start of the first crack stage. Note the time in your roasting notebook.
6. Listen closely to the beans. After a couple of minutes, all of the beans will have popped, followed by a brief silence. A minute or so later, a new, faster crackling sound, akin to logs on a fireplace, will start. It’s often accompanied by hissing. At this point, open the hatch and look at the beans. Note their color and the time.
7. Use bean color to determine when they are done.
8. Don the heat-safe gloves. When your beans reach desired doneness, open the hatch and immediately pour them into one heat-safe colander (c) .
9. Pour the hot beans from one colander to the other until they are cool to touch (about 5 minutes). This process loosens the chaff, so it tends to float around. Blow the chaff away from the beans during tossing to remove as much of it as possible.
10. Once the beans cool enough to touch, transfer them into the mason jar (or other glass container). Leave the jar open and exposed to air for a few hours. Cap the jar before day’s end. Do not leave the jar open overnight.
Stovetop Roasting Tutorial

    Drum Roasting
    In drum roasting, a perforated cylinder holds the beans, which get heated from below by radiant heat. The cylinder constantly rotates to evenly distribute heat across the beans. In addition, a steady stream of hot air blows through the cylinder’s center, creating a heating environment much like a convection oven, encouraging a consistent, uniform roast. The majority of commercial operations use a drum method to roast their coffee.

Drum roasters are now available to home afi cionados. Drum roasters run quietly and roast more slowly, which is designed to match the traditional flavor development of a commercial roaster in smaller home batches. The perforated cylinder on this Behmor drum roaster constantly rotates to evenly distribute heat across the beans (See photos on page 67).
    Pros
• Long roast time. Drum roasters usually take between fifteen and twenty

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