Thanksgiving 101

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Authors: Rick Rodgers
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heavy cream and yogurt. Season with salt and pepper. (The soup can be made 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated, although it will thicken. Reheat over low heat, adding additional broth as needed.)
    2. For the carrot soup: Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the celery and cover. Cook until the celery softens, about 3 minutes. Add the shallots and cook until they soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the carrots and potato, and cook for a minute or so. Add the stock and rosemary, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover partially and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes. In batches, puree in a blender, being sure the lid is slightly ajar to allow the steam to escape. Adjust the thickness with additional stock, if needed. In order for the pattern to stay distinct, the soup should be on the thick side, with a consistency between heavy cream and yogurt. Season with the salt and pepper. (The soup can be made 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated, although it will thicken. Reheat over low heat, adding additional broth as needed.)
    3. To serve, place a 2½-to 3-inch cookie cutter in the center of each soup bowl. Ladle the celery soup into the center of the bowl—the cookie cutter will keep the soup from spreading. Immediately ladle the carrot soup into the soup around the cutter. Lift up and remove the cutter—the soups will remain in place and create a two-tone bull’s-eye effect. Serve immediately.
     
    Side-by-Side Presentation: You won’t use a cookie cutter for this method. In each bowl, create a “wall” from aluminum foil, pressing the foil to make a dam that separates the bowl into two equal portions in the center. Pour eachsoup into the bowl on either side of the dam. Lift up and remove the foil. The soups will remain in place, creating a side-by-side effect.
     
    Swirl Presentation: Ladle enough carrot soup into each soup bowl to fill by about half. Ladle dollops of the celery root soup into each bowl. Using a knife, swirl the soups together.
    Homemade Turkey Stock 101
    Every Thanksgiving, I prepare a big pot of stock to use all Thanksgiving Day long. This luscious stock is one of the secrets to a moist, beautifully colored roast bird with wonderful gravy, as shown in Perfect Roast Turkey with Best-Ever Gravy. Some of the stock also goes into the stuffing, some usually gets turned into soup, and I often use it in side dishes as well. The recipe is easily doubled or even tripled, assuming you have a stockpot big enough to hold the ingredients. If you want a smaller amount of stock, make the Small-Batch Turkey Stock variation. But don’t worry about having too much stock. Any leftovers can be frozen or used the next day to make a terrific soup.
Turkey parts with lots of bone, like wings and backs, make the best stock. Use the turkey neck, heart, and gizzard from a whole turkey in the stock, but not the liver. (Liver makes the stock bitter.) When the stock is strained, you can retrieve the neck and giblets to use in giblet gravy. If you want to use liver in the gravy, add it to the stock during the last 15 minutes of simmering, and poach it just until cooked through.
Browning the turkey parts first gives the stock a rich color that will make a dark gravy. Cooking the vegetables brings out their flavor. Too many cooks throw the giblets in a pot with some water to boil up a weak, pale stock that doesn’t have much flavor.
Never let stock come to a rolling boil or it will become cloudy and have a less refined flavor. Cook the stock uncovered.
Add the herbs to the stock after you’ve skimmed it. If you add them at the beginning, they will rise to the surface and be skimmed off with the foam. By the way, the foam isn’t anything unwholesome—it’s just the coagulating proteins in the bones. They are removed to make the stock clearer.
The longer a stock simmers, the better, up to 12 hours. Replace the water as needed, as it

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