in a regular middle-class enclave.
From this oversight, you get the feeling that Hoboken is having a hard time celebrating itselfâand having a harder time fitting its most famous son into its story. This has something to do with the fact that its most famous son left. âFrank turned his back on Hoboken,â third-generation Hobokenite Robin Shamburg tells me. And who could blame him? At his first big public homecoming, during the townâs Italian American Day in 1948, his former paisanos threw rocks at the stage. âThey shat on him,â Shamburg continues. Still, some Hobokenites hardly mind that their prodigal son has largely avoided the town through the years. âThere are certain diehard fans who gloss over that fact,â she says. âThey idolize him.â
That idolatry is on display, albeit in understated Hoboken fashion, at Sinatraâs birthplace at 415 Monroe Street. The blocks leading up to it are meaner, shabby. You get there, and itâs not there. The building where the newborn Frankie belted his very first song of life burned down. In its place is a monument, the saddest possible brick arch, with wooden doors below it to block the view of an empty lot. No triumphal arch for this Jersey Justinian, no ornate relief carvings of his Oscar triumphs, his gold records, his pals or his gals. Just a plain stack of unadorned bricks. A comparatively snazzy blue-and-gold star marks the sidewalk in front of it. âFrancis Albert Sinatra,â it reads. âThe Voice, Born Here at 415 Monroe Street, December 12, 1915.â Youâd step on it if you werenât looking down.
Tell it to the town planners: All the birthplace site really needs to spiff up its ambience is a loudspeaker. Frankâs voice can make any old shack feel luxurious. Witness the scene at the architecturally modest Piccoloâs, a delightful all-Sinatra, all-the-time cheesesteak dive on Clinton Street, established in 1955. The joint blares a constant Sinatra sound track, inside and out. As I walk up to it for lunch one Friday, the first thing I hear from down the street is âAlthough I may not be the man some girls think of as handsome.â This line from âSomeone to Watch Over Meâ is completely ironic given Frankâs angel eyes, but the voice singing it is a slow, warm kiss.
It helps if youâre hungry more for myth than for food at Piccoloâs. The fare is midcentury American, greasy but handmade. The grill is manned by a bunch of good-humored guys in white hats chopping atcheesesteaks and cooking up french fries hot enough to burn your tongue. I slip into the back room. The walls are crammed with framed photos, most of which are of Sinatra. The highlight is a proud photograph from the November 6, 1986, issue of The Jersey Journal that shows the exterior of Piccoloâs plastered with a giant sign reading, âItâs All Right Mr. Sinatra, We Love You, That Book Lies!â, a reference to local disdain for Kitty Kelleyâs unauthorized biography His Way.
To refute âthat bookâ is the reason Hobokenâs Ed Shirak Jr. wrote Our Way: In Honor of Frank Sinatra, which you can pick up at Leporeâs Home Made Chocolates, the Garden Street candy store Shirak owns with partner Mario Lepore. Shirak writes that his fellow citizens âwere incensed by âthat bookâ as if it had disgraced the town.â If Hoboken deplores hubbubâdisdaining Kelleyâs book while at the same time not exactly going out of its way to honor Sinatra eitherâEd Shirak is a one-man band, embarking on his story (which lists some of Shirakâs Sinatra tourism dreams and schemes) after reading âthe first forty-four pages of Kitty Kelleyâs bookâ and vowing to âsimply tell the truth.â The self-published Our Way reads like a book-length fanzine, which is to say that the joy of it lies in the authorâs personal account of Sinatraâs life
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