Read Online Recipes for Life by Linda Evans - Free Book Online Page B
Authors: Linda Evans
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do: he played with it and created his own version, which he calls “egg sauce.” He was sweet to give me credit for inspiring it in
Nobu: The Cookbook.
Now Nobu has many great cookbooks and restaurants all around the world. It could not have happened to a nicer, more wonderful guy. Here is Julia Child’s classic recipe (reprinted from
Mastering the Art of French Cooking
, with permission).
FOR 1 TO 1½ CUPS HOLLANDAISE—SERVING 4 TO 6 PEOPLE
6 to 8 ounces of butter (¾ to 1 cup or 1½ to 2 sticks)
A small saucepan
A 4- to 6-cup, medium weight, enameled or stainless steel saucepan
A wire whip
3 egg yolks
1 Tb cold water
1 Tb lemon juice
Big pinch of salt
1 Tb cold butter
A pan of cold water (to cool off the bottom of the saucepan if necessary)
1 Tb cold butter
The melted butter
Salt and white pepper
Drops of lemon juice
Cut the butter into pieces and melt it in the saucepan over moderate heat. Then set aside.
Beat the egg yolks for about 1 minute in the saucepan, or until they become thick and sticky.
Add the water, lemon juice, and salt, and beat for half a minute more.
Add the tablespoon of cold butter, but do not beat it in. Then place the saucepan over very low heat or barely simmering water and stir the egg yolks with a wire whip until they slowly thicken into a smooth cream. This will take 1 to 2 minutes. If they seem to be thickening too quickly, or even suggest a lumpy quality, immediately plunge the bottom of the pan in cold water, beating the yolks to cool them. Then continue beating over heat. The egg yolks have thickened enough when you can begin to see the bottom of the pan between strokes, and the mixture forms a light cream on the wires of the whip.
Immediately remove from heat and beat in the cold butter, which will cool the egg yolks and stop their cooking.
Then beating the egg yolks with a wire whip, pour on the melted butter by droplets or quarter-teaspoonfuls until the sauce begins to thicken into a very heavy cream. Then pour the butter a little more rapidly. Omit the milky residue at the bottom of the butter pan.
Season the sauce to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
KEEPING THE SAUCE WARM
Hollandaise is served warm, not hot. If it is kept too warm, it will thin out or curdle. It can be held perfectly for an hour or more near the very faint heat of a gas pilot light on the stove, or in a pan of lukewarm water. As hollandaise made with the maximum amount of butter is difficult to hold, use the minimum suggested in the recipe, then beat softened or tepid butter into the sauce just before serving.
IF THE SAUCE REFUSES TO THICKEN
If you have beaten in your butter too quickly, and the sauce refuses to thicken, it is easily remedied. Rinse out a mixing bowl with hot water. Put in a teaspoon of lemon juice and a tablespoon of the sauce. Beat with a wire whip for a moment until the sauce creams and thickens. Then beat in the rest of the sauce half a tablespoon at a time, beating until each addition has thickened in the sauce before adding the next. This always works.
IF THE SAUCE CURDLES OR SEPARATES—“TURNED SAUCE”
If a finished sauce starts to separate, a tablespoon of cold water beaten into it will bring it back. If not, use the preceding technique.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE MADE IN THE ELECTRIC BLENDER
This very quick method for making hollandaise cannot fail when you add your butter in a small stream of droplets. If the sauce refuses to thicken, pour it out, then pour it back into the whizzing machine in a thin stream of droplets. As the butter cools, it begins to cream and forms itself into a thick sauce. If you are used to handmade hollandaise, you may find the blender variety lacks something in quality; this is perhaps due to complete homogenization. But as the technique is well within the capabilities of an eight-year-old child, it has much to recommend it.
FOR ABOUT ¾ CUP
3 egg yolks
2 Tb lemon juice
¼ tsp salt
Pinch of pepper
4 ounces or 1 stick of butter
A
Nobu: The Cookbook.
Now Nobu has many great cookbooks and restaurants all around the world. It could not have happened to a nicer, more wonderful guy. Here is Julia Child’s classic recipe (reprinted from
Mastering the Art of French Cooking
, with permission).
FOR 1 TO 1½ CUPS HOLLANDAISE—SERVING 4 TO 6 PEOPLE
6 to 8 ounces of butter (¾ to 1 cup or 1½ to 2 sticks)
A small saucepan
A 4- to 6-cup, medium weight, enameled or stainless steel saucepan
A wire whip
3 egg yolks
1 Tb cold water
1 Tb lemon juice
Big pinch of salt
1 Tb cold butter
A pan of cold water (to cool off the bottom of the saucepan if necessary)
1 Tb cold butter
The melted butter
Salt and white pepper
Drops of lemon juice
Cut the butter into pieces and melt it in the saucepan over moderate heat. Then set aside.
Beat the egg yolks for about 1 minute in the saucepan, or until they become thick and sticky.
Add the water, lemon juice, and salt, and beat for half a minute more.
Add the tablespoon of cold butter, but do not beat it in. Then place the saucepan over very low heat or barely simmering water and stir the egg yolks with a wire whip until they slowly thicken into a smooth cream. This will take 1 to 2 minutes. If they seem to be thickening too quickly, or even suggest a lumpy quality, immediately plunge the bottom of the pan in cold water, beating the yolks to cool them. Then continue beating over heat. The egg yolks have thickened enough when you can begin to see the bottom of the pan between strokes, and the mixture forms a light cream on the wires of the whip.
Immediately remove from heat and beat in the cold butter, which will cool the egg yolks and stop their cooking.
Then beating the egg yolks with a wire whip, pour on the melted butter by droplets or quarter-teaspoonfuls until the sauce begins to thicken into a very heavy cream. Then pour the butter a little more rapidly. Omit the milky residue at the bottom of the butter pan.
Season the sauce to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice.
KEEPING THE SAUCE WARM
Hollandaise is served warm, not hot. If it is kept too warm, it will thin out or curdle. It can be held perfectly for an hour or more near the very faint heat of a gas pilot light on the stove, or in a pan of lukewarm water. As hollandaise made with the maximum amount of butter is difficult to hold, use the minimum suggested in the recipe, then beat softened or tepid butter into the sauce just before serving.
IF THE SAUCE REFUSES TO THICKEN
If you have beaten in your butter too quickly, and the sauce refuses to thicken, it is easily remedied. Rinse out a mixing bowl with hot water. Put in a teaspoon of lemon juice and a tablespoon of the sauce. Beat with a wire whip for a moment until the sauce creams and thickens. Then beat in the rest of the sauce half a tablespoon at a time, beating until each addition has thickened in the sauce before adding the next. This always works.
IF THE SAUCE CURDLES OR SEPARATES—“TURNED SAUCE”
If a finished sauce starts to separate, a tablespoon of cold water beaten into it will bring it back. If not, use the preceding technique.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE MADE IN THE ELECTRIC BLENDER
This very quick method for making hollandaise cannot fail when you add your butter in a small stream of droplets. If the sauce refuses to thicken, pour it out, then pour it back into the whizzing machine in a thin stream of droplets. As the butter cools, it begins to cream and forms itself into a thick sauce. If you are used to handmade hollandaise, you may find the blender variety lacks something in quality; this is perhaps due to complete homogenization. But as the technique is well within the capabilities of an eight-year-old child, it has much to recommend it.
FOR ABOUT ¾ CUP
3 egg yolks
2 Tb lemon juice
¼ tsp salt
Pinch of pepper
4 ounces or 1 stick of butter
A
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