on wallets, not as much to see the spectacle as to take something away from it to put up on the shelf.
âCoffee?â Dub jerks his thumb back at the camper, jowls swaying. I nod and slam the tailgate shut. Five months, four thousand miles, Dubâs coffee has been slowly hollowing out my gut. He is a friend, or at least constant as one.
âChrist, it better hold,â he shouts on his way back to the camper, shaking his finger at the sky. âI sure as hell canât afford a slow day.â
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Twenty minutes later, the coffee cranking through me, I head up to the port-a-johns on the midway. Up here, things are slow to creak into gear: the carnies fold tarps, run patchy safety checks on rides, shout to one another in English, Spanish, Portuguese. Sodas are plunged into ice at the concessions stands, hot dogs are eaten for breakfast, no buns. The old man in the cotton candy stand wearily starts his centrifuge spinning and shakes his cartons of pink sugar. Ed the Giant Steer, led out of his tent so that it can be flea-bombed for the second time in two weeks, sways on his stilt legs and groans, yanking his lead in his handlerâs palms, diving for the grass. A heavy roll of ADMIT ONE tickets is dropped in the dust and rolls to a stop at my feet. No one looks up when Ipass. I might as well be just another faceless customer, passing through. The outfit is watertight. Us hucksters, relegated to the side strips, weâre nothing but gulls following a fishing boat, swooping in to snatch the leavings.
Most of the vendors down on the back side are already at their booths, counting out money, listening to radios. Yawning, sleep still burning off, looking only half-ready for the droves. I nod to the few I know: Indian Jim, who sells five-dollar sunglasses and isnât Indian in the least, Danny, the kid, sizzling on pills even at this hour, with his dream catchers and blown-glass beads on cords. They nod back, eyes hard.
I stop at the wing stand to say hello to Kathy. She leans out on the counter with her hands clasped in front of her and smiles big and blank, like sheâs waiting to take my order.
âCole, baby,â she says.
âGood goddamn morning,â I say.
Kathyâs hair, as always, is done in two braids, a hairstyle she must have outgrown forty years ago. No makeup yet, which makes a big difference. Sheâs wearing a low-necked T-shirt covered with sequins that catch the light and send it sparking all over the place. I can see the tops of her breasts, brown and cooked-looking. Whenever I see them in the light of day, I canât imagine how I ever find comfort there.
âThink the weather will hold?â she says. Her bracelets jangle as she waves towards the sky. I squint up at the clouds, making out like Iâm studying something she canât see.
âYes,â I say. âGuaranteed.â
She laughs, too loud. âYou getting into anything tonight?â Next to the deep fryer, turkey drumsticks and wings are lined up, ruddy and stoic-looking, as if theyâre steeling themselves for the hot oil. Dinosaur Wings, they call them. Thereâs a pterodactyl on the sign in the window: BOB AND KATHLEEN DENNIS . PROUDLY SERVING YOU .
âWhatâs today?â I say, though we both know it makes no difference. Every day is the same. Every night, the same clamor to erase it.
She thinks for a minute, her lips moving, counting back. âSaturday,â she finally says, flipping a braid over her shoulder, triumphant.
âOne more day. Tomorrow we go.â
âWhere?â she says with a sigh. âI donât ask anymore.â
âWest. Over the river.â For weeks Iâve been looking forward to it, crossing the Mississippi, thinking things will be different on the other side. But as soon as I say it, all my anticipation fades, the way a trout loses color when it is yanked out of the water.
âCome by the bus this afternoon and see
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