Pasta Modern

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Authors: Francine Segan
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preferably Rummo brand
Salt
Olive oil
4 ounces (115 g) burrata , or substitute fresh mozzarella plus 3 tablespoons heavy cream
3 ounces (90 g) smoked trout or whitefish, flaked
¼ cup (35 g) toasted pistachio nuts
A few sprigs fresh watercress
* If you’d like to serve four, double the ingredients and use two pans, because the sauce becomes velvety only when cooked in small batches .
Using an electric juicer, juice enough of the cabbage to get 1 ½ cups (360 ml) of liquid. In a skillet wide enough to hold the pasta, bring 1 cup (240 ml) of the juice to a boil.
Meanwhile, boil the pasta in a pot of salted water for 2 minutes. Drain and add to the cabbage juice to finish cooking, occasionally adding more juice a little at a time so it absorbs into the pasta and creates a glaze. When the pasta is al dente, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons oil and toss over high heat for a few seconds until well combined.
Meanwhile, in a blender or small food processor, puree the cheese with a little oil until it is creamy.
Spread the cheese on the bottom of the serving plates, top with pasta, and garnish with the fish, pistachio nuts, and a few tiny watercress leaves.

TROUT & “SNAILS”
    { Lumache alla Schegginese }
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    SERVES 4 | REGION : Umbria
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Trout, caramelized onions, and tomatoes season the snails here … snail-shaped pasta, that is! With its big openings at both ends, lumache pasta lets lots of sauce sneak in.
The trout flavors the sauce and then is flaked to top the pasta. Then, traditionally, the pasta is topped with grated black truffles, which, along with trout, are specialties of the tiny hill town of Scheggino, where this recipe originates.
Olive oil
1 onion, minced
1 trout, about 1 ¾ pounds (800 g), gutted but with head and tail left on
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine
1 (26-ounce/750-g) container strained tomatoes, preferably Pomi brand
1 cup vegetable or chicken broth
1 pound (455 g) lumache or any pasta
Black truffle, optional
In a large pan over medium-high heat, warm ¼ cup (60 ml) oil and cook the onion until it is soft, about 5 minutes. Season the trout inside and out with salt and pepper and add it to the pan, pushing the onion to the side. Sear the trout on each side, remove it from the pan, and set aside.
Add the wine to the onions and bring it to a low boil. Stir in the tomatoes, return the trout to the pan, cover, and simmer over very low heat until the sauce thickens, about 1 hour, adding a little broth if needed. Remove the trout from the sauce. Flake the meat and reserve it to top the finished dish; discard the bones and skin.
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss into the sauce with a little of the cooking liquid. Add in a few tablespoons of shaved truffles, if using. Serve the pasta topped with more shaved truffles and the flaked trout.

TAGLIATELLE WITH SMOKED TROUT & LICORICE
    { Tagliatelle al liquirizia con pesce affumicato }
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    SERVES 4 | REGION: Lombardy
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Smoked trout, fresh fava beans, creamy burrata cheese, and licorice: It’s a startling list of ingredients that work in glorious, delicious harmony. The licorice leaves a fresh aftertaste, with a subtly piquant bite.
Sara Preceruti, at twenty-nine, is the youngest female chef in Italy to win a Michelin star, and she graciously taught me to make this dish. It has just the right balance of ingredients to complement the decisive intensity of the licorice. The result is an explosion of flavors with licorice as the final surprise.
The recipe calls for licorice pasta. You can buy it if it’s available or try the great trick Chef Preceruti showed me—substitute any type of pasta and top the finished dish with ground licorice hard candies or a drizzle of licorice liqueur.
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
4 ounces (115 g) burrata or fresh mozzarella cheese
1 pound (455 g) licorice-flavored tagliatelle, or any pasta plus Caffo’s Liquorice liqueur or a few sugarless licorice hard candies (see

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