Nuts in the Kitchen

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Authors: Susan Herrmann Loomis
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accompaniment for the city’s noted kebabs, which are grilled over coals. I like to serve this with any grilled meat or fish, or as a first course to introduce a meal of roasted meat, fish, or poultry.
    3 scallions, trimmed and cut into paper-thin rounds ( 1 / 3 cup)
    1 small (4.5-ounce/135 g) red bell pepper, seeds and white pith removed, cut into very thin strips
    3 cups (30 g) gently packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
    1½ cups (230 g) brined green olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
    1 / 3 cup (35 g) raw walnuts, coarsely chopped
    1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
    1 teaspoon pomegranate molasses or balsamic vinegar
    Pinch of ne sea salt
    Several grinds of black pepper
    3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
    ¼ cup pomegranate seeds (optional)
    Note: If you cannot find pomegranate molasses (it is available at Middle Eastern groceries), substitute balsamic vinegar, although it doesn’t have the syrupy, tart depth of the pomegranate molasses.
    A little note on pitting olives: You can use an olive or cherry pitter, but a more efficient method is to place several olives in a row on a work surface and smack them lightly but firmly with the flat side of a knife. The olives will burst, releasing their pits, which are then easy to pop out.
     
    1. Place the scallions, bell pepper, parsley leaves, green olives, and walnuts in a medium bowl and toss. In another bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, salt, pepper, and olive oil until thoroughly combined.
     
    2. Pour the dressing over the salad ingredients and toss until thoroughly coated. Evenly divide the salad among six salad plates. Garnish each salad with the pomegranate seeds if desired. Serve immediately.

 
     
    Unbeatable Red Beets and Walnuts
    Makes about 5 cups (625 g); 8 to 10 servings
    I could eat beets three meals a day. I like them raw, roasted, steamed, braised, stewed, pickled, and pureed. Here I’ve opted for the pureeing, after simmering them gently with lots of herbs. Then I combine them with plenty of walnuts, garlic, and cilantro to give this salad its true Middle Eastern personality.
    I serve this in very small bowls or espresso cups as a refreshing appetizer or as a first-course salad, accompanied by several romaine or other crisp lettuce leaves tucked around the edges, which can be used to scoop up and eat the beet salad.
    TO COOK THE BEETS:
    2 pounds (1 kg) beets, well-rinsed, unpeeled
    4 celery stalks, strings removed, cut into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths
    3 garlic cloves, minced
    2 teaspoons coarse sea salt
    1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley
    1 bunch of cilantro
    TO FINISH THE SALAD:
    2 cups (200 g) walnuts, lightly toasted
    Mounded ¼ teaspoon freshly ground coriander, or to taste
    3 garlic cloves, minced
    2 tablespoons best-quality red-wine vinegar
    1 cup (7 g) cilantro leaves, gently packed
    Fine sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
    Note: Depending on the acidity of your vinegar, you may want to add a bit more than is called for in the recipe, for the dish should be a good balance of sweet and tart.
     
    1. To cook the beets, place them, the celery, and 3 garlic cloves in a medium, heavy bottomed saucepan. Add the coarse salt, the parsley, and the bunch of cilantro and cover with 2 inches (5 cm) of water. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium so the water is boiling gently and cook until the beets are tender through, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Remove the beets from the liquid and let cool. Strain the liquid and discard the vegetables and herbs. Reserve ½ cup (125 ml) of the cooking liquid.
     
    2. While the beets are cooking, place the walnuts in a food processor and pulse several times to chop the nuts until they are nely ground but haven’t gotten oily. Transfer the nuts to a large bowl.
     
    3. When the beets are cool enough to handle, peel, cut them into quarters, and place them in a food processor. Add the reserved cooking liquid and pulse until

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