counterclockwise. “So you cut the oranges. Lots of them. Let the juice run in too. Then the apples. I like the Gala from Washington State, but you can be more flexible with the apples. Just don’t use those big red ones covered in soapy wax from the store. They’re mealy and awful. Use a good baking apple over a good lunchbox apple. They won’t take on as much fluid and mush down on you. I’ve even used the Granny Smith. They are tart but firm and get balanced by so much soft sweetness in the salad. The Golden Delicious is fine if you can’t find the Gala and don’t want the tart zing of the Granny Smith. But the Golden will get soft after a while.” Mrs. Swindan only asked to be polite. She drifts off from the kitchen to get the three-tiered cake plate from upstairs. But. The young woman keeps listening. Mrs. Hamel folds more napkins. “After the apples go in, squirt it with some lemon juice to prevent all those apples from browning. The orange juice just isn’t acidic enough. Then the maraschinos. Halves or quarters, whichever you have time for. Lastly, the coconut. Best to grate it fresh yourself from the meat of a coconut. But I’ll admit I’ve only done that once. It was such a mess getting into that thing! It took a screwdriver and a hammer and a lot of words that I’d rather not employ to get that sucker open. The blessed thing rolled off my counter so many times that I ended up on the floor with it. My legs holding it steady then hacking at it with that screwdriver and hammer. Awful. And the milk got all over my shoes and dress when I finally did get it open. “So I do recommend the store-bought, fully-processed, shredded coconut. A quarter to half a bag. A good fistful is about right. And really it works out better than the fresh coconut because the dry coconut takes up the maraschino juice and the orange juice for blended flavor. But that coconut is mainly for texture and looks. You can leave it out if you must. It’s a great salad Christmas morning with breads and spreads. Stollen and cream cheese every year at our house.” She smiles. “The key is high quality oranges. A definite must. Not worth making with crap oranges.” “Thank you, Mrs. Hamel. Someday I’ll try it out.” “Well, not until you tell me how you come up with these beauties year after year.” Mrs. Hamel gestures toward the deviled eggs. It’s clear enough that Mrs. Hamel hates deviled eggs. But one’s recipe is never just given away. It must be exchanged for another equally as good. And everyone says that these particular deviled eggs are as near to perfection as Icarus ever was to the sun, which is much too close for Mrs. Hamel’s comfort. She slams the salt and pepper shakers down against the table in three different places. Nowhere seems right. But. The young wife didn’t make the deviled eggs. So she shakes her head and points to a tray of cookies that she only had to bake in ready-made batches for eight to ten minutes. She says she thinks one of the neighbors made the deviled eggs and cranes her neck inside to ask. But the neighbors have their backs turned, still throwing the doll’s head, and are also distracted from her uninvolved incursion by watching the middle school boys’ well-matched race in a video game. So the story of the deviled eggs is never told. Mrs. Hamel is glad not to have to listen to such rot about whoever thinks she can make the best plate of deviled eggs but also demonstrates a sort of disappointed disgust in the girl’s inability to assert herself. The young new wife of one of the older grandchildren is not just a girl and doesn’t think it is her fault that the row of neighbors can’t hear her asking for the deviled egg recipe. And why should she interrupt them when Mrs. Hamel doesn’t even want to listen? Still, it’s true enough that she isn’t quite sure which one of the neighbors made them. So there is no one in particular to ask. She wanders away from Mrs. Hamel, opens