television star?â
I ask, âYou want to be a television star, Yip?â
âYip is having been made for the television! How I telling so many people this! How I telling them that Yip is having been made for television!â
And so I keep filming.
âYou looking so confused! He looking so confused! You want the story how the way I know your ye ye ? Yes, yes you want story how the way I know your ye ye .â He turns around, faces the shop, starts walking into it, still holding on to one of my hands. âYou follow me, you follow Yip.â
The interior of the George Meat Market International is populated by more carcasses of slaughtered beasts than people. I lose my grip on Yip quickly. He sweeps through them adeptly, these hanging pieces of flesh; his head is inches lower than the longest duck or the broadest rib cage. We lose him for a second behind some massive cow leg, and then he reappears, materializing on the other side of an army of plucked, humiliated chickens. We try to keep up with him, Randal and I, as we trace his path through the flesh, but itâs basically pointless: we end up getting sideswiped by some short loins or tangled up in rounds, and then he just vanishes again. The only reason weâre able to find him in the end is that he shouts, very loudly, for everyone to hear, I always moving very very fast! I always losing people! But you come, you come here! Heâs standingin front of a steel door with chipped blue paint, and he ushers us into a room that, at least from the looks of it, used to be a meat locker.
The place has been turned into a makeshift office. On the wall: a framed picture of Yip with a Chinese movie star Iâm pretty sure I recognize. In front of it, two mismatched chairs and a single wooden desk, upon which sprawls an orange cat, ragged and ancient, with only one front leg.
âSit! Sit!â he tells us, pulling out both the chairs. He perches, authoritatively, on the desk. He reaches into one of the drawers and offers us both unfiltered cigarettes, which we both take, and which makes me hack. He motions for Randal to close the door.
âMy God,â he says in unaccented English after he gets the thing lit. âItâs exhausting, isnât it?â
The smoke rises, forming clouds that blanket the ceiling. I cough some more.
âPardon?â
He nods to the door, to the circus of sightseers that festers outside. Smoke seeps out of his nostrils, a dragon. âJust thisâthis whole routine. So tiny and dancing like this! Christ almighty.â Yip waves the cigarette in wide dismissive loops. He motions, again, to the tourists. âBut which one of them wants to buy things they canât pronounce from a guy whoâs lived in Long Island City since he was eight? A guy who talks like heâs Tony Fucking Soprano? Iâll tell you whoânot a goddamned one of them.
âChen at Global Seafood, over on Broomeâheâs the asshole who came up with the shtick first. They want authenticity, he said. They come from Kansas and Iowa with their cameras and they want authenticity. This! Coming from a Szechuan Jew from Astoria!â Then: âThey came, though. Can you believe it? They bought the gag, and they came. Now Chenâs got tourists lined up around the block, paying to take a picture with him and a goddamned plucked duck . And let me tell you something about tourists, kidâthey donât haggle over the price of mushrooms. They donât bitch about the shrimp not being big enough. They buy shit, and they get out of your hair. So, here we have it: authenticity. â
The cat makes a noise, something asthmatic and irritated.
Yip tells us, âJust ignore Mrs. Dalloway.â
âIs sheâall right?â
âMrs. Dalloway? Sheâs fine. Better than fine, unfortunately. Damn thing is fifty years old. Iâve had her since I was fifteen.â
âThatâs
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