Chasing the Divine in the Holy Land

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Authors: Ruth Everhart
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called away.
    â€œThis is exactly why we don’t do creeds,” Charlie says. “They’re nothing but trouble.”
    For once I can understand Charlie’s perspective, even though I’m a word person and the Reformed tradition is full of creeds. Words can be a tool or a weapon, even when they’re ancient. They’re never really dead. A few words have the power to enliven or to enrage, the power to build a bridge or to fortify a wall.

    Back in our simple dorm room, JoAnne shuts the window so that the Muslim midnight call to prayer won’t wake us up, as it did the previous night. There’s a minaret just outside. Even though the room is a little too warm with the window closed, I agree. Tonight I want to sleep more than I want to pray.

The Dome of the Rock, Old Jerusalem
    CHAPTER 7
    Sin-cere
    Lord, my heart is not proud.
    P SALM 131:1 (NIV)
    O N THE BUS waiting to go to the Wailing Wall, I realize that yesterday was September 11, the anniversary of the terrorist attacks on the Twin Towers and the Pentagon. At home in Washington, D.C., that date would have been significant; here it slipped past me. I feel disconnected from my normal life. Maybe my transformation into a pilgrim has been too successful.
    It’s perplexing, because in other ways I feel like a pilgrim failure. I have good intentions. I want to open myself like a pilgrim. I pray to become whatever God wills. But I get in my own way. Instead of confronting the Holy, I confront myself. I have so many limits, from physical to intellectual. Being in the sun exhausts me. I need caffeine. I need a nap. I need time alone. I’m unable to think past certain thoughts. Maybe that’s always been the case, only now I’m aware of the logjam. I can feel the pilgrimage pulling me to jump over this pile-up to somewhere new. But to where? It’s threatening to think something new. I’ve known Jesus every day of my life, to my great comfort. Do I dare change that?
    Sitting on the bus, I want to sigh and sigh and sigh — as if to expel these tumbling thoughts and so rid myself of discomfort.Yet I know I’ll breathe in something else, something threatening, or wonderful, or both at the same time. What’s more, I can’t avoid it: I must take in a next breath. Can I trust the Spirit to be in that breath, too?
    In last night’s sermon, Nael talked about looking for the face of Christ in each person. I take his words seriously because he lives as a Palestinian Christian in a city literally divided by religion. If he can discover Christ in the faces of Muslims and Jews and atheists, maybe I can, too. Even as I’m pondering this, another interpretation occurs to me, a kind of flip side. Perhaps my face can reflect Christ. Perhaps mine can be the face of Christ.
    I’m getting a sense — almost a physical sense — of inner divinity unlike anything I’ve ever felt before. In what way can I house Christ? I’ve experienced, in lovemaking, a sense of bodily holiness, but this is different. It’s not relational, it’s more integral to my own self, my own body-occupying self. Simply writing these thoughts in my journal feels threatening. My Calvinist background has taught me I’m unworthy. The phrase “inner divinity” seems heretical. But I let it stand.
    Religion is bound up with bodies. That’s not a new concept to me, but I’m seeing new implications. Aren’t bodies how religion becomes violent? Violence may begin as an emotion, but it’s expressed through bodies. Not only through breath and words, but blows! And isn’t love the same — beginning in emotion, expressed through bodies. Yes, both sides of spiritual passion — violence and love — are bound up in our very human flesh. Is this a fuller meaning of incarnation than what I’ve yet grasped?
    I feel a new appreciation gestating in me. I’m experiencing, rather than simply

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