Read Online Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan - Free Book Online Page B
Authors: Dorie Greenspan
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I was, in line for the third time in as many days. When I hit the front of the queue, it was a gentleman salesperson who started to offer his services. However, after seeing me, he stopped his standard, how-may-I-help-you greeting and said, "Ah, you're the American who is Janine's customer.
Uninstant,
I'll get her."
Now, after three days, I wasn't just a regular, I was someone with my own personal cheese coach. And why? Because I'd complained. Months later, I checked with Janine to make sure I had it right.
Yes, it was because I'd complained—nicely. By doing this, I scored a point for Americans, assured myself a steady supply of the finest cheeses, and learned something important about cultural differences: in America, if you complain, you're a crank; in France you're a connoisseur.
----
Dieter's Tartine
Y OU CAN FIND TARTINES IN MOST every café, certainly in Paris, but it's rare anywhere to find a place like Cuisine de Bar, a casual restaurant that devotes itself entirely to tartines. Rare but inspired—it's next door to the famous Poiláne boulangerie (see [>] ) and is owned by the same family. Who better to make great tartines than the bakery that makes the most perfect tartineable bread in the country?
At Cuisine de Bar, there is, in fact, a bar at the front of the restaurant and it's there that the cooking—if you can call it cooking—is done. The ingredients for the tartines are on or under the wood bar, and to the back of the bar are the ovens: a battery of toaster ovens, ideal for grilling the large slices of bread.
This
tartine régíme,
or diet tartine, is extremely popular among ladies-who-lunch in Paris, since it is filling but not fattening, pretty but not precious, and fine for any season. In Paris it is made with nonfat fromage blanc, a creamy cheese slightly more fluid than our sour cream. You can find it in many American markets, or you can make a mix of cottage cheese and sour cream, both nonfat, of course. The tartine is finished with cubes of cucumbers and tomatoes, but, depending on the season and what's in your vegetable bin, you can scatter any combination of diced vegetables and herbs over it. (I like it with paper-thin slices of radishes and some scallions.) You can drizzle the finished tartine with some fruity olive oil—it will make it a little less dietetic and a little more flavorful.
Obviously pain Poiláne is the bread of choice here, but a hearty farm bread, sourdough or not, makes fine tartines, as does a baguette, sliced the long way, rye bread, or thick-sliced firm white bread. This is a casual dish, so go with what you've got. It's what the French do daily.
1
large slice country bread, about ⅓ inch thick
½
cup nonfat fromage blanc or nonfat cottage cheese thinned with nonfat sour cream (about 6 tablespoons cottage cheese to 2 tablespoons sour cream)
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
⅓
seedless cucumber, peeled and diced
1
small tomato, preferably peeled and seeded, diced
Chopped fresh chives
Herbes de Provence (optional)
Lightly grill one side of the bread or toast it on one side in a toaster oven. Place the bread toasted side up on a large plate, spread with the fromage blanc, and season with salt and white pepper. Or whisk the cottage cheese and sour cream together vigorously (or, if you'd like a smoother blend, pulse them a few times in a mini processor or with a handheld blender), spread on the bread, and season. Toss the cucumber and tomato cubes with salt and white pepper and spoon them over the tartine, paying no attention to what spills over onto the plate. Sprinkle with chives and a tiny pinch of herbes de Provence, if you're using them. Leave the slice of bread whole or cut it in half; serve immediately.
MAKES 1 SERVING
STORING
If you're using a mix of cottage cheese and sour cream, you can get the blend together the night before and keep it covered in the refrigerator. Otherwise, as with salads of any kind, this is meant to be put together and
Uninstant,
I'll get her."
Now, after three days, I wasn't just a regular, I was someone with my own personal cheese coach. And why? Because I'd complained. Months later, I checked with Janine to make sure I had it right.
Yes, it was because I'd complained—nicely. By doing this, I scored a point for Americans, assured myself a steady supply of the finest cheeses, and learned something important about cultural differences: in America, if you complain, you're a crank; in France you're a connoisseur.
----
Dieter's Tartine
Y OU CAN FIND TARTINES IN MOST every café, certainly in Paris, but it's rare anywhere to find a place like Cuisine de Bar, a casual restaurant that devotes itself entirely to tartines. Rare but inspired—it's next door to the famous Poiláne boulangerie (see [>] ) and is owned by the same family. Who better to make great tartines than the bakery that makes the most perfect tartineable bread in the country?
At Cuisine de Bar, there is, in fact, a bar at the front of the restaurant and it's there that the cooking—if you can call it cooking—is done. The ingredients for the tartines are on or under the wood bar, and to the back of the bar are the ovens: a battery of toaster ovens, ideal for grilling the large slices of bread.
This
tartine régíme,
or diet tartine, is extremely popular among ladies-who-lunch in Paris, since it is filling but not fattening, pretty but not precious, and fine for any season. In Paris it is made with nonfat fromage blanc, a creamy cheese slightly more fluid than our sour cream. You can find it in many American markets, or you can make a mix of cottage cheese and sour cream, both nonfat, of course. The tartine is finished with cubes of cucumbers and tomatoes, but, depending on the season and what's in your vegetable bin, you can scatter any combination of diced vegetables and herbs over it. (I like it with paper-thin slices of radishes and some scallions.) You can drizzle the finished tartine with some fruity olive oil—it will make it a little less dietetic and a little more flavorful.
Obviously pain Poiláne is the bread of choice here, but a hearty farm bread, sourdough or not, makes fine tartines, as does a baguette, sliced the long way, rye bread, or thick-sliced firm white bread. This is a casual dish, so go with what you've got. It's what the French do daily.
1
large slice country bread, about ⅓ inch thick
½
cup nonfat fromage blanc or nonfat cottage cheese thinned with nonfat sour cream (about 6 tablespoons cottage cheese to 2 tablespoons sour cream)
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
⅓
seedless cucumber, peeled and diced
1
small tomato, preferably peeled and seeded, diced
Chopped fresh chives
Herbes de Provence (optional)
Lightly grill one side of the bread or toast it on one side in a toaster oven. Place the bread toasted side up on a large plate, spread with the fromage blanc, and season with salt and white pepper. Or whisk the cottage cheese and sour cream together vigorously (or, if you'd like a smoother blend, pulse them a few times in a mini processor or with a handheld blender), spread on the bread, and season. Toss the cucumber and tomato cubes with salt and white pepper and spoon them over the tartine, paying no attention to what spills over onto the plate. Sprinkle with chives and a tiny pinch of herbes de Provence, if you're using them. Leave the slice of bread whole or cut it in half; serve immediately.
MAKES 1 SERVING
STORING
If you're using a mix of cottage cheese and sour cream, you can get the blend together the night before and keep it covered in the refrigerator. Otherwise, as with salads of any kind, this is meant to be put together and
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