been hired is no exception. There is a page in the handbook for every step of every process in the preparation of every menu item. It isnât cooking that Iâm doing here as much as production. Iâm essentially a factory worker. One of the managers is a cooking school grad who was fired up with new ideas when he was hired six months ago, and has now resigned himself to slapping burgers into molds with a look of disgust. âIâm going to get a real job,â he tells me as he shows me how to use the burger mold. âIâve applied at Payne Walker.â
âIsnât that a slaughterhouse?â
âItâs meat cutting. You get to use a skill.â
Iâve worked in actual factories, and the workers are happier than the people here. The people here are not allowed to admit that they are involved in a production line, and the managers are in charge of the collective denial. We read weekly bulletins sent to us from corporate headquarters that tell us how well we are doing, how we are pleasing âguestsâ (the new word for customers), how we must keep smiling, even in the kitchen where the guests canât see us. Scowls are picked up by the waitstaff, who then scowl at the guests, who leave and donât come back; and then the restaurant is closed and weâre all looking for jobs. So if we like being employed, weâd better smile. Thatâs the logic.
It looks good on paper, but the philosophy fails to take into account the complexity and perversity of human nature. Directives to grin have the opposite effect on me. Smiles come from somewhere else. The end result is waitstaff and floor personnel gripped with a forced neurotic enthusiasm, which they substitute for actual pleasantness. This manifests itself in unnecessarily loud speech, so everyone walks around and screams at each other, and the guests.
âHOW ARE YOU TODAY, DAVID?â a perky female manager asks me at the beginning of my second day. Enthusiasm comes from the top, so the managers have to be the perkiest of us all.
âMy nameâs Iain,â I tell her quietly.
She pumps me on the shoulder and wanders off. Later in the day, after a busy lunch shift, she comes back behind the cook line and looks at us, clearly worried.
âWHATâS THE MATTER WITH YOU GUYS?â she asks. The other cook, an older Nigerian named Jacques who has worked here for years, stares at her. Iâm trying to learn a new menu and to get the ingredients right in a salad Iâm making.
âWe busy,â says Jacques. I nod in agreement.
âEVERYBODYâS BUSY,â she yells. âCOME ON, KICK IT IN GEAR!â
Iâm convinced this is just silliness, and Iâll get used to it, and I spend the next few days making an effort to learn the menu and get things right. The work is hard, but Jacques is a good teacher and easy to work with. I mind my own business, show up on time, and do everything the handbook tells me is required. At the end of the week, the manager, Marci, calls me into the office for âcounseling.â
âYou donât seem happy here,â she tells me. She isnât screaming now. Sheâs looking at me intensely, as if daring me to say the wrong thing, and a hundred wrong things occur to me. Whatâs happiness got to do with it? That would be wrong. Fuck you. That would be wrong too.
âIâm fine,â I say.
âYou donât seem fine.â
What am I supposed to say to that? Iâm here. I was on time and sober. What do they want? I stare at her, convinced if I say anything, itâll come out wrong.
âWhat do you have to say?â
âNothing, really.â
âWould you be happier somewhere else?â
âNo,â I lie. Wouldnât we all be happier somewhere else? Isnât that a mainstay of the human condition? I donât think it was a philosophical question.
She shrugs her shoulders and throws up her hands, as if to
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