sand trapped between the many layers, cut the leek lengthwise and slice or chop; swish the pieces around in a bowl of warm water. When the dirt settles to the bottom of the bowl, lift out the clean pieces.
Peppercorns are berries that grow in grapelike clusters on a climbing vine. Black peppercorns are picked when the berries are not quite ripe; when dried, they turn from dark brown to black. White peppercorns have been allowed to ripen, after which the skin is removed and the berries are dried. They are smaller, smoother skinned, and have a milder flavor than black peppercorns. White pepper is often used in light-colored foods where the specks of black pepper would stand out. Whole dried peppercorns can be stored in a cool, dark place for about 1 year; ground pepper remains flavorful for about 4 months.
ratatouille soup
Vegan recipe if cheese garnish is omitted
This thick and chunky ratatouille soup is hearty and satisfying. Serve it hot or chilled, accompanied with thick slices of crusty French bread, wedges of pita bread, or Toasted Pita Triangles.
Makes 6 cups (4 to 6 servings)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, cut into ¼-inch strips (about 1 cup)
1 eggplant (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into 2-by-¼-inch strips (see Tip)
1 zucchini, cut into 2-by-¼-inch strips (about 1 cup)
1 cup chopped green beans in 2-inch lengths (about 4 ounces)
½ green bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and cut into 2-by-¼-inch strips
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 15-ounce can tomato sauce
1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil, or 1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
1 cup vegetable stock
2 tomatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
˜ salt to taste
˜ shredded Cheddar, Monterey Jack, or Parmesan cheese for garnish
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until it is translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in the eggplant, zucchini, green beans, bell pepper, and garlic. Sprinkle the vinegar over the vegetables. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.
Stir in the tomato sauce, oregano, dried basil (if using), sugar, and pepper. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, over low heat until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes.
Stir in the vegetable stock, tomatoes, and fresh basil (if using), and salt. Increase the heat to medium; cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until the tomatoes are tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Garnish each serving with cheese.
Eat some, leave some; remember tomorrow.
—Jamaican proverb
advance preparation
This soup will keep for up to 5 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. When reheating, stir in vegetable stock, water, or tomato juice to thin as desired.
TIP
Eggplants, which are actually a fruit, not a vegetable, are available in many varieties; the most common is pear-shaped with a smooth, glossy dark purple skin. Under the skin, most varieties are pretty much alike and are interchangeable in recipes. Because eggplants become bitter with age, it’s best to select smaller, young fruits, which do not require salting and rinsing before using. Press gently on the flesh; if the eggplant is ripe, it will spring right back. If a dent remains, it is past its prime. Store eggplant in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator and use within a day or two of purchase. Since the flesh discolors rapidly, cut the eggplant just before using.
jalapeño–corn chowder
Although we think of corn as a Midwestern summer vegetable, it’s actually grown year-round in Florida, the number-one sweet corn–producing state. (California is second.) Nothing beats corn eaten the same day that it’s picked, in its prime, before the sugar begins to turn to starch. But when
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