Read Online Eating Italy: A Chef's Culinary Adventure by Jeff Michaud - Free Book Online
Authors: Jeff Michaud
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so tender that it starts to fall apart and most of the liquid is absorbed, 30 to 40 minutes total, adding just enough water, as needed, to prevent sticking. You will need to add about ½ cup (120 ml) every 15 minutes after the first 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, steep the saffron in 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of hot water. Add the steeped saffron and steeping liquid to the rice, along with a final ½ cup (120 ml) of added water. While the rice mixture is still hot, puree it quickly in a blender on high speed. The longer it purees, the gummier it will become, so keep the pureeing time short. If the puree is too thick, add a little water to thin it to a nice creamy consistency. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
For the gremolata: together the parsley, garlic, and lemon zest.
Pour the pureed braising sauce from the shanks into a medium saucepan, along with enough water to make a sauce the consistency of thick gravy. Season to taste with salt and pepper and half of the gremolata. Place the pork shanks in the sauce and heat through, 8 to 10 minutes.
Spoon the crema on individual plates, top with the shanks and some sauce, and sprinkle with the remaining gremolata.
CHOCOLATE FLAN
Everyone teases me about the name of this dish because it’s basically a molten chocolate cake, but at Frosio, we called it a flan. I’ve made this dish hundreds and hundreds of times. It’s one of the first desserts I cooked for Claudia, and I’ll keep serving it to her for years to come. It’s a great make-ahead dessert because you can pour the chocolate mixture into the flan molds and refrigerate it for hours or even days ahead of time. Then you take it straight from the fridge to the oven just before serving.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar
4 large eggs
6 large egg yolks
8 ounces (2 sticks/227 g) unsalted butter
8¾ ounces (250 g) chocolate, preferably 58% cacao, chopped (2 cups)
1⅔ cups (208 g) tipo 00 flour (see page 277 ) or all-purpose flour
½ cup (120 ml) Crème Anglaise ( page 284 )
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
¾ cup (112 g) chopped raw unsalted pistachios, preferably Sicilian
1½ cups (375 ml) Pistachio Gelato ( page 286 )
Whip the sugar, eggs, and egg yolks in a stand mixer on high speed until light and fluffy, about 10 minutes.
Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium heat until melted and hot. Add the chocolate and remove from the heat. Let stand until the chocolate is mostly melted, 5 minutes or so. Stir until the chocolate and butter are blended. Blend into the egg mixture on low speed. Sift in the flour on low speed.
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Butter and flour six to eight 4- to 6-ounce (125- to 175-ml) baking tins or ramekins. Fill the buttered and floured tins to just under the inside rim. Bake until set on the sides but still gooey in the center, 6 to 8 minutes. The centers should be soft to the touch and jiggle when shaken but not be really liquidy. (The flan molds can be filled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days before baking. Bake uncovered straight from the refrigerator, adding a minute or two to the baking time.)
To finish, spoon a swirl of crème anglaise on each plate. Run a knife around the edge of each flan to loosen it. Turn each flan out onto the plate. Top each with confectioners’ sugar and a couple of teaspoons of chopped pistachios. Place a couple of tablespoons of chopped pistachios on the plate as a bed for the gelato. Use two spoons to scoop the gelato into an oval shape (quenelle) and place the quenelle on the chopped pistachios.
CHESTNUT RICE PUDDING with PERSIMMON
Claudia’s Uncle Bruno and Aunt Betty live just a mile or two from where she grew up. Betty is from Denmark and makes amazing desserts. When I was trying to perfect a rice pudding, I asked Claudia whether her aunt had a recipe. She told me about the chestnut rice pudding that Betty makes every year for the holidays. I played with the recipe a little and added some candied
Meanwhile, steep the saffron in 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of hot water. Add the steeped saffron and steeping liquid to the rice, along with a final ½ cup (120 ml) of added water. While the rice mixture is still hot, puree it quickly in a blender on high speed. The longer it purees, the gummier it will become, so keep the pureeing time short. If the puree is too thick, add a little water to thin it to a nice creamy consistency. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
For the gremolata: together the parsley, garlic, and lemon zest.
Pour the pureed braising sauce from the shanks into a medium saucepan, along with enough water to make a sauce the consistency of thick gravy. Season to taste with salt and pepper and half of the gremolata. Place the pork shanks in the sauce and heat through, 8 to 10 minutes.
Spoon the crema on individual plates, top with the shanks and some sauce, and sprinkle with the remaining gremolata.
CHOCOLATE FLAN
Everyone teases me about the name of this dish because it’s basically a molten chocolate cake, but at Frosio, we called it a flan. I’ve made this dish hundreds and hundreds of times. It’s one of the first desserts I cooked for Claudia, and I’ll keep serving it to her for years to come. It’s a great make-ahead dessert because you can pour the chocolate mixture into the flan molds and refrigerate it for hours or even days ahead of time. Then you take it straight from the fridge to the oven just before serving.
MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar
4 large eggs
6 large egg yolks
8 ounces (2 sticks/227 g) unsalted butter
8¾ ounces (250 g) chocolate, preferably 58% cacao, chopped (2 cups)
1⅔ cups (208 g) tipo 00 flour (see page 277 ) or all-purpose flour
½ cup (120 ml) Crème Anglaise ( page 284 )
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
¾ cup (112 g) chopped raw unsalted pistachios, preferably Sicilian
1½ cups (375 ml) Pistachio Gelato ( page 286 )
Whip the sugar, eggs, and egg yolks in a stand mixer on high speed until light and fluffy, about 10 minutes.
Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium heat until melted and hot. Add the chocolate and remove from the heat. Let stand until the chocolate is mostly melted, 5 minutes or so. Stir until the chocolate and butter are blended. Blend into the egg mixture on low speed. Sift in the flour on low speed.
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Butter and flour six to eight 4- to 6-ounce (125- to 175-ml) baking tins or ramekins. Fill the buttered and floured tins to just under the inside rim. Bake until set on the sides but still gooey in the center, 6 to 8 minutes. The centers should be soft to the touch and jiggle when shaken but not be really liquidy. (The flan molds can be filled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 2 days before baking. Bake uncovered straight from the refrigerator, adding a minute or two to the baking time.)
To finish, spoon a swirl of crème anglaise on each plate. Run a knife around the edge of each flan to loosen it. Turn each flan out onto the plate. Top each with confectioners’ sugar and a couple of teaspoons of chopped pistachios. Place a couple of tablespoons of chopped pistachios on the plate as a bed for the gelato. Use two spoons to scoop the gelato into an oval shape (quenelle) and place the quenelle on the chopped pistachios.
CHESTNUT RICE PUDDING with PERSIMMON
Claudia’s Uncle Bruno and Aunt Betty live just a mile or two from where she grew up. Betty is from Denmark and makes amazing desserts. When I was trying to perfect a rice pudding, I asked Claudia whether her aunt had a recipe. She told me about the chestnut rice pudding that Betty makes every year for the holidays. I played with the recipe a little and added some candied
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